Farthest right line at the Riviera. Identify a high bolt that works up and right over some blocky stuff, then up a slab with horizontal cracks, then finishes up a small headwall onto some choss at the top. High quality granite and nice, easy gear placements make this one safe and well bolted in my opinion.
Eds. Actually, there is another natural line to the left of this route.
Protection
Five widely spaced bolts to a good anchor that could easily be reached for toproping. A few small cams and midsize nuts will protect the runouts here. Good lead for the 5.7 or so leader who is just starting to place gear.
Eds. There are now 2 Metolius rap hangers each with 2 links for the anchors.
I only counted 4 bolts but there are many places for gear in between the bolts. A decent line for a new leader as the bolts are easily supplemented with gear (#0.75 Camalot and smaller). Anchor at top does not have any rap rings placed on it so watch your rope on this one, or just walk off to the right and walk the 50' to the ground.
There's definitely 5 bolts on the route, all right where you'd want them. This route is a fun romp up a slab, with beautiful moves. I'd give it two or three stars, personally, but then I just love runout granite slab routes. It was a hoot!
A fun beginner practice lead with some variety to make you think. You can either run it out a bit between bolts or have fun practicing placing pro inbetween,which is probably a good idea anyways in a couple of spots. Nice play to go if short on time as approach is easy as well.
This is a nice little route. A great warmup for other climbs at the Riv. I gave it a 5.7 but it's just barely so. It could just as easily get a 5.6. There is a nice variety of moves and they are all very well protected. I agree with the concensus that a few pieces of gear are helpful if you're not too confident.
WARNING: The Anchors at the top Spin!! Somebody should check them out, as I'm not an expert...
I already posted this comment on the Chouette (5.6) route, but since these routes share the same anchor, I thought I would post it here too, just in case.
The route itself is really nice for beginners (like myself). If you can do Chouette, you can do this one too. It's not as run out as Chouette, but you can place pro if you feel the need.
-ajs
By Scott Edlin From: boulder, co May 9, 2006 rating: 5.6
There are enough gear placements that this could probably be led more safely on all gear than on all bolts with no gear. Next time I'm up there I'll try it and see.
RSS Feed
