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Frictionary 

5.7

   

FA: Rick Leitner, Gary Deal, 1/2/00
Type: Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 1,738 page views

Submitted By: Barry Gereb on Apr 4, 2001


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Climber at the crux of Frictionary.


Description 

Locate this climb by looking for the furthest right, bolted line on the south face of surprising crag. Scramble up to the base of the arete and friction your way up a crumbly slab, enjoy a few moves on the arete and continue to the anchors that are above and right.


Protection 

5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. This could easily be set up as a toprope as the anchors are far back from the edge. bring some slings to extend your rope over the edge.



Photos of Frictionary Slideshow Add Photo
Climber near the top of Frictionary.

Climber near the top of Frictionary.

Frictionary.  The easiest route at the Sport Park.  The crux is frictioning up the slab past the third bolt.

BETA PHOTO: Frictionary. The easiest route at the Sport Park....

Leading Frictionary, a few moves below the <br />anchors.  Photo taken by Ariana

Leading Frictionary, a few moves below the
anchor...


Cathy Dececco leading Frictionary while Jeff Crow belays, 11/25/06.

Cathy Dececco leading Frictionary while Jeff Crow ...

Cathy Dececco leading Frictionary on a perfect fall day, 11/25/06.

Cathy Dececco leading Frictionary on a perfect fal...

Steph getting her head for leading back after a bit of time off the rock.

Steph getting her head for leading back after a bi...


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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 1, 2002

I would strongly recommend this climb for those very new to sport climbing. An easy climb, all of the bolts are easy to clip, and a great view from the top. This was my first sport route, so I will always have fond memories of it.

By mary
Jul 11, 2003

This is probably the easiest sport lead in the Canyon (that I know about anyhow). It is perfect to build confidence and if you want to make it more interesting you can stay on the face instead of going left around the arrete.

By Rob Migliore
Jun 25, 2004
rating: 5.7

Good beginning lead, but you have to trust your feet as there aren't as many hand holds on the slab. Would like to get back to sport park for some ot the good moderate routes.

By Zed
From: Gotham City
Aug 21, 2007
rating: 5.6

My girlfriend and I decided to try this place out today. We did about a half dozen of the moderates, up to mid 5.10, and thought this was the best route of all of them. The route follows an obvious, uncontrived path, and it is bolted intelligently. The moves are also very fun.