BETA PHOTO: Eagle Rock from the road - Great Dihedral is the d...
Description
This takes the huge left-facing dihedral that splits the whole rock and is very prominent from the road. The start of the climb is reached by hiking up and right and getting onto large ramp system that brings you to the start of the route.
Climb slabby rock with little pro as it steepens and gets polished... you will see a fixed pin under a large roof, don't go that high but traverse left on scary moderate ledge to a slab that brings you up and left and into the dihedral (scary moves above tricky pro) and take the steep corner (6-10 inch crack) by climbing face just left of the crack for a long way (just when you think things will ease up they don't) and turning roof high up to a ledge with 2 new bolts. This pitch is long and protection is thoughtful (unless you haul a bunch of #5 camalots).....5.5 is total sandbag, I'd say sustained 5.7 with a few scary sections.
Pitch 2 continues up the face left of the huge corner and is much easier but fun and steep with big holds. Not a beginner lead despite the 5.5 rating.
Protection
Stoppers and Aliens to #4 Camalot (#5 if you like hauling that anchor along).
Great climb. First pitch is an ugly traverse. ZigZag from right to left until you get to a 2 bolt anchor on the face. Then go straight up the face next to the dihedral (5.7) up to a huge ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. Really fun pitch. Pitch 3 go's straight up on huge buckets, and then finally getting into the dihedral crack for the final 20' to a 2 bolt anchor. Rappel down or walk off the back. Small rack. Friends around #1-4, nuts from #5-10, 6 quick draws, and 3 slings. Have fun!
Great route to escape the crowds...Cool dihedral minus the bat shit and wood rat piss. I haven't found another dihedral at the grade to stand up to the quality of the Zanzibar Dihedral on Independence Pass. Anyone have any suggestions?
By Clint Locks From: Boulder Mar 1, 2004 rating: 5.6
I agree with both previous entries: the climb is more 5.6, there is an abundance of (mostly avoidable) poop, and should possibly receive an 's' rating, due to the first pitch. It's a really fun time, though, and the ledge at the top of the first pitch is very spacious and cool.
Eagle Rock does require a creek crossing, so keep that in mind, as it could affect your 'car-to-car' during the spring months.
By Stich From: Colorado Springs, Colorado Aug 29, 2004 rating: 5.6
Midway through pitch one, I came upon a fresh, hot, steamer the size and weight of a Texas cow turd. It is unknown whether this be the handiwork of herbivore or carnivore, but it was clearly not avian. It seems that avoiding these deposits of schitt makes one gravitate to the sparsely protected face to the left of the dihedral. Though runout, it is at least cleaner.
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