Ken Leiden clipping the bolt just before the crux.
Description
It sounds strange, but this .12b is actually one of the better warm-ups on Easter Rock. The route lies just to the left of the arete at the bottom end of the cliff (just around the corner from 'Empire of the Fenceless'). The climbing is relatively easy (5.10 or so) up to a sit-down rest, and then a 2 move 5.12- crux a little before the anchors. A fun, solid, well protected route.
This indeed is a fantastic 5.10 warm-up right until you reach the Butt Smackin' Good Crux with Bran and wish you wore your Oops I Crapped My Pants diaper under your Prana climbing pants.
The moves up to the crux on this route are a great warm-up. HUGE holds up a great dihedral with some mellow stemming. The crux is way harder than the rest of the route. You will get to a small side pull edge for your hand on the other side of the arret, and you will stuff your left foot into a slot. Drop your left knee and torque your foot hard. It will strongly seat your left foot and bring your left hip up and in so you can make a slow reach for an edge on a small sloping shelf. A cool bouldering problem on a fun route. Loved it!
Unlike the previous reader, I did not execute as a slow reach. Beta was the same until I stuck the left foot in the slot. I then slapped high left to the first bomber sloper, moved my left foot up to the next pimpy edge, slapped the arete higher and then chucked high for the right handed sloper gaston..... One more heave and the "jug" was then attained. Super cool!
I left a carabiner on the top anchor to backup the sketchy anchor system. Why is the chain linked into both anchors? And why is there a single bolt about three feet right of the anchors? I saw nothing above the final bolt but the anchors I used seemed dangerous. Please leave the carabiner unless you are leaving something better.
Easter Rock
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