This area is closed for raptor nesting from February 1, 2006 through July 31, 2006.
BETA PHOTO: Stars and Stripes Wall
Description
Eagle Hardware sits squarely in the middle of the Stars and Stripes Wall just where a steep ramp system takes off to the right. The route starts on an obvious block that has both a belay anchor and the first climbing bolt. A couple of minor overlaps can be quickly disposed of using good incut edges. This will deposit the climber at a system of parallel grooves or seams in very blackish rock. These unusual features reminded me more of limestone runnels than cracks. They can be lay-backed or directly jammed as one of the 5.11 cruxes. A small corner system and another crux at 5.10+ takes you to the anchor. This route gets three stars for quality, the climbing moves, and the continuity. However, I almost knocked off a star for the over-bolting. I found myself being annoyed by the bolts that came up too frequently, and even skipped a couple in the early part of the climb. I first climbed this route with the stupendous Henry Lester, and he too complained of the excess bolting. As I recall, he clipped perhaps no more than 8 of the bolts. Nonetheless, this route is a classic Boulder Canyon climb and a must do at Eagle Rock.
Protection
QD only. This is an 80ft route with 13 or 14 bolts and a double bolt anchor.
I've only been on this route once, but I do agree with the over-bolted assessment. As well, I seem to recall a totally unneccesary chipped bucket at the top of the twin grooves -- at the very least, this hold looked like it had been comfortized with a drill bit.
I was hoping someone could also bolt the approach slab to this climb because I felt it was fairly run-out compared to the route. Thank god there was a rap anchor at the base of the route or I would have made it safely to the ground. Also, I appreciatied the fact that my mid-section was just al well protected throughout this route as my feet and chest were as I strained for the next bolt. Good Job protecting this route!!!
I found this to be not as good as others have said. Mediocre (but solid) rock at the bottom, not particularly interesting moves. Just a pump.
The bolts at the bottom are absurd, beginning with 2 belay (or bivvy?) bolts with another belay bolt just to the left. Then several bolts about 4 feet apart on easy ground. Perhaps some of these were added by another party. One bolt in the first 15 feet would be plenty. Once it gets hard, the bolts are still pretty close, but at least they make sense thre. I clipped them all, being really pumped, as this was the last climb of the afternoon.
Absolutely no joke the bolt ladder on the Grand Wall has more generous spacing on it that this route. Someone could have bolted this route on lead from aiders, never venturing into their top step and still would have placed the bolts further apart.
Why don't you post which bolts could or should be safely or easily skipped. Then perhaps we could eventually agree on which bolts should eventually be removed? If fixed pro is unecessary, clean it. Just stating that it is overbolted does not bring us forward.
Uh ... yeah. Have you seen what happens to people on this site and in the community when someone removes a bolt? Retro-bolts? Changes fixed gear in any way, any where, under any circumstances?
If you haven't, one word: pirahnas.
It's probably easy for many to agree that Rolofson/whomever over bolted the hell out of many routes, the Eagle's (otherwise fun) routes included. But try to get consensus to change it... fuggedaboutit.
Everyone will not agree. Pipe up about what bolts you think are not needed, eventually someone with a wrench will fix the route, or not. If I could climb more than 5.5- I would do it myself :-o
By Darko Sarenac From: boulder, co Sep 18, 2007 rating: 5.11d
The bolting worked just fine for my wife Cath for whom this was the first ever lead, indoor or outdoor.
A 5.11d for the first lead ever? I think that pretty much shows what the over-bolting issue does to this climb. I'm sure the moves are still hard, over my head. But don't listen to me, I'm one of those old ethic farts that used to try and push using fine clay instead of chalk in your chalk bag (never did like that climb by following the dots thing).
Eagle Rock
RSS Feed
