Joy Ride is a great climb on perfect stone but is by no means the end of great climbing on Coney Island. To the right, Der Letzte Zug and Die Reeperbahn offer more difficult, but terrific problems on perfect stone. Joy Ride, like Die Letzte Zug, begins at the top of the saddle in a small talus field. The climbing starts on a short slab (5.11) adjacent to a thin right angling seam and heads directly to a small overlap. Hang on for some superb technical face climbing on great edges and side pulls. A bit of handy-work and a good jam under the overlap set up the move, and the technical crux to the climb at about 25 ft. This is a very long reach (!) with the feet akwardly out sight and under the overlap. If you slip right past the crux (5.12b if you are short), don't get too cocky;. the pump just mounts. After very continuous 5.11 climbing, and after another akward move at 65 feet, Joy Ride delivers a second crux at 5.11d/5.12a. Even then the climbing isn't over. Another difficult move from a good stance, that has right hand and left hand solutions at 5.11d has to be mastered before being deposited at the anchors, just above a good ledge. Three stars for the quality of the rock, the climbing moves, the mental problem solving, and the continuity.
Protection
QD only. 8-9 draws takes you to a double bolt anchor at aout 80 ft. This route had a couple of bolts added back in 1996 making the run-out in the middle now very comfortable.
This route was originally 5.12b, because when I first did the route there were 2 less bolts than now... someone adding bolts without asking... bad style... and it was a real sports climb... not just another boulder canyon sport park fiasco... Jesse Guthrie
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