This quality climb is a good introduction to the steep routes on the Clock Tower's imposing roof. It starts a few feet to the right of the large tree that greets you as soon as you get to the base of the wall by coming up the trail. Ignore the tree placement in Rolofson's new guidebook, as he has it too far to the right. Anyways, the route climbs well-protected 5.11 moves through a small roof before topping out on a slab. Find the handy no-hands rest after pulling the roof and chalk up well so you don't grease off the slab moves.
Protection
9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Quickdraws are all you need.
An enjoyable route, although it doesn't look very promising from the ground. The holds are large and the angle is steeper than it looks, if there was no bat shit all over the route, it would be much nicer, but a great line dispite all of this.
A beautiful climb! The bat shit, I feel, does not detract from the route at all since it has become park of the rock --- like a black glue. A great workout for more difficult 5.11's.
I've been on routes graded mid-5.10 that are harder than Tagger, Outer Space, and Grandmother's Challenge. So, that makes Tagger, Outer Space and Grandmother's Challenge 10- or perhaps 5.9, which means Big Dipper is 5.9 or 5.8 (this is clearly nonsense)..........
The point: it's difficult to compare trad grades to sport grades. Furthermore, it's hard to compare grades from one climbing area with grades of another climbing area. How about we compare the grade for a climb in one are with other climbs in the SAME area. (i.e., compare Big Dipper to other climbs in Boulder Canyon). The result of within-climbing area grade comparison will of course be that some areas will have a reputation as soft and others as sandbagged.... but who cares.......
Yes, the old Spoog-ster does care, and anonymous coward appears to also care. This is good.
The Spoog-ster cares about consistency in grading/quality ratings within a climbing area...not the actual grades themselves. We climbers should all care and make efforts to continue self-organizing ourselves for the benefit of our sport.
I totally agree with Nick. I am so sick of hearing how "That route would be 5.6 at the Gunks."And really, who does care if it's a, b, d,q, or f. Did you enjoy the climb or not? And besides, your not 20 years old anymore and the routes are probably harder than you remember! Good luck with your crusade.
Upper Wall
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