An OK route that climbs straight up Chicken Wall. It starts from the right side of the first obvious belay ledge at the base of the wall and climbs good holds to the top of the wall.
Protection
6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. It can be set up as a TR from the top, but please be exceedingly careful when reaching down to clip the anchors from above. Use your best judgment as to whether it is safe or not.
I agree about the rating. But you must always think of the grading issues at 'The Sport Park' when you go up there. Many of the routes are a little overgraded. Perhaps this route could be 8+.
By Ron Olsen From: Boulder, CO Jun 19, 2006 rating: 5.9
This felt like solid 5.9 to me; maybe some of the edges have rounded off over the years. A good climb.
8 or 9, there are pretty good holds sustained to the anchors. If ever there are worn holds there are good feet (my take). It's a decent route- definitely a good first run for the day.
I love this route as a good warm up for the chicken wall. It has also been useful as a spot to teach others some leading skills. It seems more like a 5.8 than a 5.9, but it really depends on your route. Don't drift too far from the bolt line!
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