This route used to be a 5.10b until a key hold in the crux broke making it a 5.12a. So, essentially the route is a hard 5.9/easy 5.10 with a 5.12 move on the roof section. The route begins in a crack just to the right of a large overhanging roof. Climb the crack to the roof and traverse to the left. Here you will find a critical series of 3-4 moves to conquer the roof. There is a bolt on the roof which you may want to clip on toprope to avoid an undesirable swing (especially if you might be there for awhile). Once you conquer the roof, follow the crack to the top where you will make a zigzag to the left before reaching the anchor.
Protection
The toprope requires a class 4-5 down climb from the top of the wall, you'll need some gear and a sling. The top is best accessed via a hike up the left side of the crag. You can rope up the route without the down climb, but I do not recommend it due to rope wear.
I would strongly disagree that this route goes at 5.11, 12 minus in my opinion. It is actually quite enjoyable lead if you angle up and right and join Dementia at the roof. A one or 2 move wonder with fun climbing above. 1.5 stars in my book.
Definitely .12- crux. One bolt on route (protects crux), is easy to clip from funky layback. Power up off tiny tiny holds to big finish. Rest of route gets R rating. Takes a few TCUs the rest of the way up.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO May 7, 2008 rating: 5.11+
After doing it not knowing anything about it, I guessed 11c or 11d. Call it 11+ and we're good. I doubt it was 12a, but maybe I got lucky or something. Fun moves marred by discontinuity of a line and lotsa guano below the roof.
Happy Hour Crag
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