Start on the left side of a block, going up an easy crack. Move up and right across a face to an undercling, and then up a slot into an overhanging, left-facing dihedral. The move up is off an absolutely wicked 2-finger 1-digit finger jam.
Protection
This route is best done on TR. A trad lead is possible, but not recommended. The crux of the climb would be difficult to protect. A bolt here would be a good addition to the route.
Note: This is climb #2 in the beta photo. The climb makes a reasonably well protected lead with bomber gear up to the roof and then small nut and microcam placements in the crux section.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Jul 7, 2005 rating: 5.9+ R
The flake at the crux, which is your ONLY opportunity for pro has a 1/8 to 3/16 inch crack behind it, but flexes ~1/4 inch. If you were to fall on pro behind it you might turn a loose flake into a death flake (fall on you). There is good protection below the roof that would keep you off of the ground, so make sure you get it and then run it out a little- and be SURE you are solid at the grade.
As Tony mentions, most/all of the gear in the upper crux section is placed in contact with a large, long flake or two that sound kind of hollow with the flake expanding possible. I thought one or two placements in the crux might have held a fall but still wouldn't want to test it out...
There are rap slings in the tree at the top of the climb to descend.
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