Nancy Hobbs, after only four months of climbing, r...
Description
Start in the center of the rock, at the left crack that moves up and joins another from the right about ten feet off the deck. Move up to the tip of the triangle where the two cracks join, and then follow up and left. The crux is halfway up this crack section. Zag a final time and finish. Some sweet hands jams in a pin-scarred crack.
Protection
Some 10 foot slings should work. We have seen this as an aid climbing practice route. Standard rack up to #2 cam.
Did this one this morning (4/26/01) at 7am with Ben after we both pulled all-nighters. Best way to start a day/end a night in a long time. Crux is sticking that hand jam 30 feet up just before it cuts back right.
Even though I did this route on TR it still stands out in my mind as one of my favorite. Powerful climbing down low into a good rest, then more technical as the feet taper out. Since it is so close to the road I don't see why anyone would pass it up. BAD ASS!
This is an AWESOME route!!! Me and one of my friends did it on toprope since one had a cast. He was the only one who flashed it, too! He broke his pinky and ring finger and was jamming them into the crack! His cast was in shambles by the time he was done. Very cool rout
Don't be scared off of leading this sweet route by the lack of easy gear. If you take your time and fiddle stuff in, it can be pretty solid. There is a bomber rp just before the crux where the crack goes back right. Classic civilized (i.e. pin scarred) climbing!
Bad ass climb! It starts off nice and easy then the crux comes and feet almost dissappear! I Pulled it quick and finished upthe climb. Great pro if you look hard enough, I climbed it right at dusk so finishing in the dark was great fun, don't pass this climb up!
I was just up here last week, and quite personally, I think this is the worst route at practice rock. Though inarguably the hardest, it is so greased up that it is hardly worth the trouble. However, it does provide good trad practice for gear between 1 and 2.5 inches.
Excellent route. I can't remember how many times I've climbed on it, but it always menaces us when we go to practice rock. Hard work and great practice. Hence the name? Great practice for aid climbing in the snow, rain, etc. too. Easily toproped off of a huge tree on top.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO May 15, 2008 rating: 5.11-
5.11- at hardest for folks with thin fingers. I used pinky/ring instead of first/middle and all the sudden I was hiking up it, little effort required. Good during cool temps, and I didn't find it to be too slick this time.
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