Myke Komarnitsky hanging by the best finger jam of...
Description
Start out up the obvious crack running up and left, same as Left Crack. Where the crack branches, follow the right crack, moving up and into the top right corner of the roof. Find the best finger jam of your life, in the crack rising up out of the corner of the roof. Move out to the flake and up the crack.
Protection
Long slings. two 15 footers would be perfect. Standard rack for trad.
As a variation, if one avoids the finger lock above and to the left of the mini-overhand and instead directly tackles the mini-overhand from below (reaching up and to the climber's right for a good flake), this route can be significantly harder (perhaps middle 10s). Anyway, I recommend the variation as it climbs quite differently (I felt like I was on a different route).
This climb is a blast when you go for the onsight. Skip the toprope rehearsals and commit to it and you will love it, it will keep your attention for a 5.9. once you do it the move feels maybe 5.8 but really good.
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