This route begins just right of arete, at the obvious crack system. Climb up the fun crack to a nice rest, then continue up and right into the dihedral. The crux of this route involves climbing up into and over the bulge to jugs. There seem to be a couple different ways of approaching this section, so fight off the pump and enjoy yourself on this solid climb.
By Peter Franzen Administrator From: Portland, OR Jan 1, 2001
This is a fantastic route, but was I missing something up by the anchors? I had a hard time finding any holds at all about 5 feet below the anchors (well above both cruxes). I was probably just blind from lactic-acid buildup...
I am sure that you found this in the end. However, a good stance for getting to the anchor can be had by cutting right around those rounded bulges, about ten feet below the anchor. You pick up good hands, and by staying cool can quickly step back left, over the bulge and right below the anchor. It turns out to be a good stance for clipping the anchor. I thought that the crux was also a bit circuitous. Cut hard left around the roof, and take scary move back right over the roof for a clip. Still, this is a great route and worth the effort to figure out.
One of the better sport routes in the Canyon. The crux is awkward... kind of like a harder version of the corner on Elanor (the route to the right)... some of the good holds in this section seemed like sucker holds. The 7th bolt, at the end of the crux section, was very difficult to clip.
Someone left two locking carabiners on the anchor for this route which I'm assuming was by mistake. If you can identify them, let me know and I'll return them to you.
Easter Rock
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