Dementia 

Solid 10a through the crux and a fantastic climb. Two bombproof palcements through the crux (a blue and yellow TCU) inspires much confidence. Probably the best route at Happy Hour for its grade.

That's funny, Mark! Isn't this the ONLY 5.10 at Happy Hour?? OK, I guess Cheers is 10a too. But I count only 2 5.10's!

A very impressive route and a solid 10a for sure. Nuts protect the crux as well as TCU's so pop em' in there and crank. A really good character building lead for the ambitious 5.10 leaders in the group, I would say the best route at Happy Hour and a very stiff lead, enjoyed it a lot ! 5 stars on a 3 star rating.

It is a good climb, a fun climb, but there are harder 5.9s in the canyon.

This route is not as good as the hype...pretty much a ledge walk all the way up the thing. One hard move at the top of the flared grove and it's over. A good first 10 lead.

One of the best routes at Happy Hour. Interesting, sustained climbing from bottom to top. The difficulty of the crux is height-dependent: I'm tall enough (6' 1") to be able to do it with a wide stem, but shorter climbers have to do a harder sequence. For me, the crux is more like 5.9 than 5.10a, but I have seen shorter climbers who can do other Boulder Canyon 5.9s struggle with the crux. For sure, Dementia is easier than Cosmosis, so perhaps the 10a rating is a bit inflated.

Easier than Cosmosis, and easier if you're tall.

I felt that this route was very true to its grade. I have lead many bolted 10s and 11s, however this was my first ever 5.10 trad lead. I enjoyed the route very much. The slightly overhanging open book is killer, and the finger locks are bomber. For future climbers who are just pushing into 10s on gear, I recommend keeping your pro organized and ready to plug in, when in the open book. I chose to keep a yellow Alien in my mouth, so that I would not have to futz with finding gear on my belt. Overall, the route was killer, I had a great time, and it was even November.

Delightful. The grade is right on for the crux, which is the open book slightly overhung tasty fingers bit. It's solid fingers and placements makes it the perfect first 10 lead. Way to grunt sal! There is a fixed cam just atop the crux which looks a little worn but still good. Next time, rock, paper, scissors is mine to win.

I think this is a great first 10a lead but want to make a disclaimer. This route has a potential for an awkward fall. I was belaying a leader on this route and he had placed a red alien about 4 feet below the top of the dihedral. As he reached for the good hold to pull out of the dihedral (and out the roof ) he peeled and swung down hitting his right side in the dihedral. This caused his right front gear loop to blow out and all his small cams and a no. 3 camalot cut loose. I don't know if this a freak occurance or what?, but special consideration should be made when racking for this climb. It was my no. 3 which is now trashed and I'm suspect of several of my small cams that fell. Does anyone know if or where I can get them inspected? E-mail me. TNF2323... Not Anonymous Coward

I used two #2 Metolius cams at the crux. You can equilize a few nuts at the last ledge stance (medium to small I think). I remember using a #3 Metolius after the crux. I got the stem move (5'11"), You can reach way out and do a palm smear, then swing your left leg out to stem. I also found good footholds on the overhanging (right) side of the book. I onsighted this but fell on Cosmosis, I guess they're both around 10a, Cosmosis is just much more sustained. This was one of my first 10a trad leads, super cool route. Kind of like Yosemite but shorter.

Was on the sharp end of this stellar route today, and agree with Ron and others, in that those with a long inseam (I'm 5'11") will not have to go to the top of the crack for a stem way left. This stem is a long/wide one, and is 3/4 the way up the crack, involving a short smear up the face with close to perfect finger/hand jams on great rock. The sequence above the open book is also excellent... Thoughtful, sustained moves throughout... Protects well with medium to large stoppers, small cams up to and including a #2 Camalot.

Best route on the crag! The cruxes for me were the layback to start the hard moves and the mantle. Once I was in the dihedral I could get a rest after each move. I'm tall enough to get the stem towards the top of the dihedral so that took a bit of the edge off.

Fun route...attempted with H. McIntyre on 5/14/06 but backed off the crux because the smallest cam I had was a 0.5 Camalot. I'd recommend red and yellow Aliens or equivalent size for the finger crack. Would have preferred to use stoppers, but I didn't think the geometry of the crack looked all that good for stopper placements. Or, maybe I'm just chicken.

This route is very memorable...short but sweet! I found the smallest tricams to be perfect placements in the cruxy section.

You go with that pink tricam, Kevin! A man after my own heart. (There aren't many of us left. Let's form a support group!)
From the route description:
"...A traverse out the top leads to chain anchors. Long runners to avoid rope drag if toproping."
I would think twice about toproping Dementia from the chains. The angles and swing potential for the climber once in the 'business' would be...interesting. If toproping it, build a solid directional after exiting the roof or, better yet, just get ya some small gear and go for it. It's remarkably safe as a lead.

One of the best climbs at the crag. I'm 5'9"; the v slot isn't a problem if you chimney up with right hand in the crack, left hand flat on the wall at your back by the arete and feet smearing on the features. It's a cool section.