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I, Robot 

5.7

   

FA: Kurt Gray and Charly Oliver, 1979.
Type: TR
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 1,093 page views

Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001


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BETA PHOTO: Per Mike Morley:
1 - I, Robot
2 - Are We Not Men
3 -...



Description 

Start in the shallow right-facing dihedral, about 2 feet to the left of the tree. Climb up to the ledge 10 feet up and slightly left, and then follow the crack running up and right to the top.


Protection 

Look for the two trees, and bring long slings (20 ft).



Add Photo Photos of I, Robot
The start of the route.

BETA PHOTO: The start of the route.

A somewhat easier, more direct start to the route.

BETA PHOTO: A somewhat easier, more direct start to the route.


Add Comment Comments on I, Robot
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By pete cogan
Sep 23, 2002

This route can also be led with a standard rack, up to a 3.5 camalot. The crack that I went up, moving Left to Right diagonally as you look up, was flaring but it did take two cams. Leading this is certainly an option before it gets covered in top ropes, although the flaring cracks made the pro less than ideal.

Not just for top roping!

By Kevin Craig
May 28, 2005

If you lead this, make sure to have plenty of small gear for the thin fingers crack up above. Small nuts and Aliens work well. Some good finger locks in the crack, but the feet are mostly smears at the crux (a small bulge) - harder than it looks from below, but 5.7 feels about right.

By Dave Holliday
From: Louisville, CO
Jan 27, 2006

This makes a nice lead. Save a yellow Alien or equivalent for the top crack and a medium-ish stopper. Thought-provoking crux for the grade.

By Jason Shatek
Mar 21, 2006

Cool crux, its lots of fun if you only use the finger crack and don't wimp out and go left. There is a fixed stopper at the crux as of 3/18/06. I would say only using the finger crack by itself could go at 5.8.

By Jo Holloway
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 30, 2006
rating: 5.7

I just did this as my first 5.7 lead. I found it relatively straight-forward to sew up the finger-crack on the upper part of the pitch with finger-sized cams (e.g., blue to yellow Aliens). If you have small-to-medium sized hands, you can get in some great finger locks that will get you through the smeary crux with limited fretting.