A beautiful arete running along the west side of the slab. The crux moves are over the roof, and getting over the bulge onto the arete about halfway up. Well worth it.
A good route, did it awhile back. I can't justify the 10d rating but would give it 10b/c, if you are using the holds all over the left face perhaps the route is 10a, but being an arete and doing the route keeping this in mind I think the rating stands. The proper name of the route, just for bookkeeping sakes is "Sunshine Arete".
This route, I believe is at least a 10b maybe c if you continue up, staying a bit to the right just beneath the last bolt instead of moving left around the arete then going up and finally coming back around to the right to clip the last bolt. I have seen many people do this including myself. When it is done this way it is definately put at 5.9. If you go straight up an undercling is needed to make a good reach to clip that last bolt.
Are you people seriously debating the ratings of this climb? Is there actually a difference between a closely bolted 5.10 and a closely bolted 5.9? Give it a rest....
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Apr 14, 2003 rating: 5.10a
Beta is beta.. is the purpose of the site. There is a big difference between 5.9 and 5.10d when someone who only red points 5.9 is looking for a safe project to work on. They'd probably forgo the 5.10d.
Yeah, you're right. After rereading my comment, I realized I sounded like a dick. I just think it's weird that people are trying to downplay others' accomplishments at every level on this website by downgrading everything.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Apr 15, 2003 rating: 5.10a
A lot of people on this site, self included also 'upgrade' climbs. I think the tendency over time is to downgrade certain types of climbes from the FA's rating, as easier sequences are discovered. Others will be upgraded, as holds break off. It's just the nature of things.
Last lead in the dark yesterday. This is by far my favorite .10 in the canyon. Climb it fast and dynamically for some serious fun. I use two slots to the west of the arete, but think that this could be why some think the climb is easier than a 5.10... If you lead 5.9 sport, this climb is a perfect project. If you lead 5.11b, don't use ANYTHING on the left side of the arete and you'll have a challenge, especially at the roof. Rebuttals???
Try doing this route WITHOUT using arete holds on the left, and you might agree with the 10d rating. If one chickens out to the left (especially at the roof) it is 9+ in my book. Great climb!
It seems silly not to use the arete since that seems to be the path of least resistance, and all the bolts can be easily clipped from there. I thought it was 10a climbing the arete.
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