Start left of where the rope falls. Most of the climb is done to the left of the rope. The begining is fairly easy with lots of big holds. About half way up the climb gets harder with some interesting balance techniques and opposing forces. The top is easy and if you follow the route you should have to traverse about 10 feet to the chains.
Protection
Chains are at the top providing a very quick and easy set up. A large tree is up there too for a backup if you desire. Bring a long sling for it.
If this is the route I think it is, I'm going to have to disagree with the bomb rating. Sure, there is little to no gear for leading, but this is a fun TR. The hand holds are far apart and maybe not so good, but the feet just appear like magic.
A bomb? Come on, people. Maybe not classic, but fun and thoughtful. Harder but more interesting than the right-hand route on this face. You can make this one as hard or as easy as you want on TR.
Anybody know if there is a name for the route just right of where the rope falls - and does the wall with chains just to the right of this wall have a name?
Steve Dieckhoff thought this climb was noteworthy enough to include in is outstanding book, Serious Play: An Annotated Guide to Traditional Front Range Classics. There's a quote worth mentioning about this climb: "You could spend hours toproping different variations on this face, eliminating holds until there are none left. The grace, technique and confidence you learn while mastering this type of climbing will serve you well in your climbing career" (p.49).
By kevinnlong From: Boulder, CO Jun 13, 2008 rating: 5.8
This whole face is an excellent TR location for beginners and intermediates as well as those aspiring to learn how to build anchors. Access to the top is easy, and there is ample up top to build various anchors.
Also, free soloing the dihedral to the right is fantastic and straightforward.
Nip and Tuck
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