The first bolt is about 20ft or so off the deck so bring a small cam, but it's easy ground up to the bolt. The crux is a pull over the bulge toward the end of the route.
At the bulge slightly below the end of the route, where it gets steepest, there are good holds on the right. I've seen folks go left (as shown with the red line), and I have gone right myself. Any comments on this variation? Will Burrows
Climbed this on 5/4/02. The nut on the second hanger was unscrewed to the point of nearly falling off. I tightened it by hand, but that won't last long. As far as the bulge goes, we did it both ways, finding that going right was easier climbing but made clipping the bolt harder.
Easy to protect up to the first bolt with a small TCU and/or stopper. I found the roof on this route (climbed on the left side) much more fun and esthetic than that on neighboring Simmer.
On 10/28/2004 Dale Haas and I removed the smash (lap) links at the anchor and replaced them with 3/8" quick links and Fixe SS rappel rings. Also, we tightened the nuts on all four of the bolts which protect this route.
This work was supported by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.
By Ken Cangi From: Boulder, CO Nov 15, 2007 rating: 5.9
I liked this route better than Simmer. The line was more direct, and the moves through the roof were more interesting.
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