Climb the left of two cracks on the far west end of Nip. Scramble up the easy rocks to the base of the crack, below a roof. The way I saw it done (by Ben Mottinger) was via a heel hook above his head. I don't know if this is the best or only way to pass the roof, but it did look extremely bad ass. Follow the crack up to the top.
Be aware of a 1 ton barely attatched death block on top of this route. It sits right in the v of the dihedral at the top. The approach on the west (left) side of Nip is not recommended. It is loose, I knocked some SERIOUS rocks into the road from here. The gully between [Nip and Tuck] would be much safer....
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Aug 10, 2001 rating: 5.10
I did the crux on big fun reaches without going horizontal. Good route, hard to let go to put in gear at the crux though, so protect early and often, then at the crux, fire for it.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Mar 5, 2002
Definitely does not require houdini moves. Straight forward, strenuous pulling brings it home.
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