Sixth route from the right, just left of Bosch Blanket Bingo. Climbs the obvious, small overhang with a flared fingercrack in its right side. This route is really fun... for about 10 feet. Then it's back to walking up the slab. Not sustained, but worth doing if you're in the area. Easier for tall folks.
Solid 5.11d with no left hand to speak of on the crux pull. Bomber crack for right finger must be used to walk the right foot onto a small vetical stem on narrow vertical face. Crank on right hand hold, shift weight into rock, step up with left foot onto small ledge and reach high for pocket with left hand. Very balancy move favoring taller climbers. The meat is 15' of hard cimbing.
From a sampling of this crag, there isn't much here that is too interesting. The 10 feet of tricky climbing on Silver Glide is cool, and definitely one of the area highlights. The crux seems to be legitimate 11+, although this is definitely an easy 11+ route, given that the hard part is pretty short. Feels more like a V3 boulder problem.
This really is just a one-move climb but the one move is really interesting. I had to think it over quite a while; half the difficulty is in ruling out the obvious alternatives. I also used Leo's "vulcan hold" for the left hand and then did a push with the right to stem the right foot up. After that I was able to stand up and reach the good stuff. Cranking off the finger crack would work, but is much more burly.
The Riviera
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