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Devin's Dihedral 

5.9+ R

   

FA: George Watson and Steve Ilg, 1987
Type: Trad, Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.9+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 463 page views

Submitted By: Nate Weitzel on Jan 1, 2001


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Whoopin' it up.


Description 

Climb the black-washed, right-leaning corner right of Au Natural. Very sketchy small pro going up the corner. Near the top of the corner, clip a bolt on the left wall. Continue straight up, or step right and climb a slab to the anchor.

Fun stemming and laybacking up the corner, and thin slab climbing at the top. A good route. Can toprope this route after leading Au Natural.


Protection 

1 bolt (retrobolted with permission?) plus some small-to-medium gear should get you to the anchor.



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 23, 2003
By Matt Bauman
Jan 1, 2001

I thought this was a quite fun route....5.6 climbing with very thoughtful pro (use slings) to a steep and slick dihedral with a seam (no pro) and a perfect bolt on the left wall to protect this balancy crux. Above the bolt is sustained 5.8 climbing for ~15 feet until a perfect Alien placement...eases off to 2 bolt belay. This exciting and fun pitch.

By Anonymous Coward
Jan 1, 2001

I agree with the comment above. Though short, the balancy crux was fun and exciting. I was able to place a #1 and #2 Camalot on long slings before the lone bolt, then ran it out to the anchors on fairly easy rock. Rossiter rates it a 9+.

By Kreighton Bieger
Jan 1, 2001

I have to agree with Matt. I really enjoyed this route, having done many of the routes at the Riviera. It also offers the best placement for the yellow/red offset Alien Ive gotten yet! Remember, you're not in Eldo here, the climbs are short, but this was classic Canyon stemming and slab moves in my opinion.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 22, 2002
rating: 5.9+ PG13

Deserves a star. It is oddly reminscent of the 2nd pitch of Where Eagles Dare. Offset cams are not required. It is not R rated with the bolt.

By Tony Bubb
From: Boulder, CO
May 1, 2002
rating: 5.9

It's short, but somewhat fun. I'd tell people it was fun and if they got somehow stranded at this bolt-infested crag that it is worth the bother. 1-star, and a lot better than many of the other routes there. Too bad it was retro-bolted.

By Brendan Sheehan
May 6, 2002

I liked this climb. It's possible to layback part of the dihedral, both feet on right wall, fingers in seam/crack. When the seam runs out you can move out right on sketchy friction.

By Ron Olsen
Administrator
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 4, 2002
rating: 5.9+ R

This is one of the nicer routes on the Riviera. Neat laybacking and stemming with two different ways to do the finish.

By Joseph Proulx
Oct 26, 2003

This is a great climb on great rock. It's too short, but it's far from being a one-move wonder. The moves, like the gear placements, require some thought. Also, both the moves and the gear can feel a little insecure. However the stances are good enough that you have plenty of time to think through your gear placements and moves, so it feels pretty safe.

I used only small stoppers through the crux, as I didn't see anywhere to get in a cam. Maybe a micro cam in the dihedral - but I don't have any.

By Anonymous Coward
Nov 3, 2003

History: I was pointed to this by Richard Rossiter a good while back. I did the first lead sans bolt with Steve Ilg as my second. Try it sometime without the bolt, which was added with my permission by Jon Grayson, it is even more thoughtful. The route was originally named Devin's Dihedral. I have no idea why it was renamed.

By Tony Bubb
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 4, 2003
rating: 5.9

I did it without the bolt and you are right, it is more interesting. I carried a handful of RPs and offsets and still didn't get a good piece in until after the crux. It's more or less a S/VS 5.9 climb. My previous comment was made without the knowledge that the retrobolting was by permission fo the FA party (whomever you are), although I don't necessarily endorse it. The info that the FA party was in consent came from an anonymous source here...So who did the FA?

By Ivan Rezucha
Nov 4, 2003

There's a microcam in a tiny horizontal around to the right of the rounded arete before you get to the bolt. I remember being gripped just getting to the bolt.

By Gary Schmidt
Nov 23, 2003
rating: 5.9+

Personally I thought it was a fun route and one of the better routes at the crag. Thoughtful moves required and extra spicy for the leader. Even more fun in 40 degree weather with numb fingers. Not to be missed if at the crag. Rossiter gives this route a star and a 5.9+ rating.