Fifth route from the right. A fun line with several variations. Can be done as a 5.8 if you take the easiest line, or a 5.10 if you take the hardest line.
This route is a bit of a squeeze job (stay left of the bolt line or you'll trespass on Topless Etiquette!) in between Topless Etiquette and Silver Glide. Not included in the Rossiter guide.
Climb straight up a face past three bolts. Move up right and reach left to clip the fourth bolt above the lip of a roof. You now have three options:
1. Traverse left to a good crack to surmount the roof (8). 2. Tackle the roof straight on via a finger pocket and a reach up left to the good crack (10b). 3. Climb the roof on the right (9).
Continue up to the second roof at the fifth bolt. You now have two options:
1. Move right around the roof using a groove (8). 2. Tackle the roof directly using thin holds (10b to 10d). The more you stay in line with the fifth bolt, the harder the climbing.
Did this route today, it is a little bit of a squeeze job if you don't follow the bolt line. The move at the 4th bolt seems harder than 5.10 straight up, very reachy, without getting into the crack at left. From here, fire straight over the little overhanging section, again very reachy. (Almost dyno for under 5'7".) A decent line, you could lead the whole crack with trad gear for a decent route as well.
You can lead the crack with gear at about 5.7. This is how I got the anchors in for Bosch Blanket.
By Aron Quiter Administrator From: Berkeley, CA Sep 6, 2002
After the crux this is a little runout, but the section that's runout it only about 5.5, if that. I liked this climb, slabby roof sections that have a mini-Yosemite feeling to them.
I don't like this type of route because it feels contrived to follow the bolt line. If you stay right of the bolts, it's probably not even 5.9, but following them seemed harder than 5.9. An orange Alien can be slotted above the roof, or you can make some easy moves and clip the final bolt.
A good climb though found it a bit confusing in knowing what the intent of the exact line is. The move at the fourth bolt is definitely 5.10 something if you don't use the crack. There is a small 2 finger pocket for your left hand to help you over the bulge but your all the holds for your left foot seem to be slanted in the wrong direction just when u need them. If you work your way up high on the bulge and reach for a second into the crack with your left hand, the move becomes much easier.
Surprisingly large holds just below and over the fifth bolt.
By D's Nutz From: Boulder, CO Aug 28, 2007 rating: 5.10b
Great climb! Fun rout the whole way up. I didn't think there was a 10d anywhere in the climb. A 10b at most was at the first overhang and maybe the second.
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