Bruce Hildenbrand making the final step left to th...
Description
P1. Starts the same as North Face Center....goes left when steep finger crack goes left on face away from the big dihedral on right....then traverse left on shallow ledge....up tricky and steep finger cracks to blocky belay ledge.
P2. Then continue up steep but easier cracks to top.
Walkoff the back.
Protection
Slung horns and cams and stoppers....doubles on smaller cams nice.....
This route has a couple creaky flakes on it. I ran it out across the traverse only to discover that my placements would have to go behind flexing flakes. That old pin after the traverse looks pretty good at that moment! A great route.
Did this earlier this morning. I don't like it when my holds all feel like they'll fail. Not to spew beta, but I got a bomber #4 Smiley wedge in at the left end of the traverse behind the big flake. It didn't LOOK bomber, but would have held a fall, especially since I just wanted it while I moved up to the pin. In the undercling above the pin I got a really good green alien, and then I slung the super creaky flake. I don't think the slung flake would have held a fall, but it was easy to the ledge after that.
If you like climbing on peeling onions you'll like this climb. The moves are spectacular, and the pro reminds me of Eldo, but everything is hollow and flexing. For an awesome finish go straight up the crack in the middle of the tower without steping around the corner to the right.
This one is lots if fun, Good gear fun moves, nice exposure, use some double length runners, be smart with where you place your pieces, and you can stretch it in one 60m pitch.