Megan cranking through the crux of her first climb...
Description
Climb the 3rd major crack from the left, on the main face. Jam through a small bulge, and continue straight up. It's a great beginner climb, and a good beginner trad lead as well.
Protection
Mid-to-small sized rack items for lead. For TR, longer slings work well.
This is a fun route on really good quality rock. It helps build confidence leading, and the crux, a small bulge half way up, is very well protected with a #6 hex (#0.75 Camalot maybe) and is also on good hand holds. Idle Hands is about the same difficulty as Mons, but without any crux really. Be sure that the belayer is anchored if you are leading this climb to prevent any falls to the highway.
Be careful of loose rock on the ledge just below the anchor. There are a couple football sized rocks that if knocked down, would make for a bad day to any motorist driving by. Also, when rapping, watch where your rope lands. My partner knocked loose a small-ish rock while rapping that nearly hit an onlooker taking photos from the road.
Real good beginner climb - the crux (the large bulge) is 5.5, but the rest of the climb is around 5.2, maybe .3 - BIG second on the warning for loose rock on the ledge below the anchor bolts. LOTS of softball size and larger rocks that would ruin some motorist's day.
The Boulderado
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