BETA PHOTO: 1. Jam It, 8 2. Ho Hum, 4 3. Idle Hands, 6 4. Mons...
Description
The leftmost route on the crag. Start just right of a little pine tree below a roof with a left-trending hand crack. Climb cracks and face to the roof, work up the hand crack to the left, and continue to the top.
This route is basically a one move wonder. The only section of the route that resembles a 5.8 is when you have to go over the several foot, slightly overhanging crack, but this move felt more like 5.7 to me. The rest is a walk in the park.
Protection
Mid sized cams for the TR anchor, and for the roof crux.
If you want to experience the 5.8(+) part, don't use ANYTHING but the crack to pass the roof. I led it the other day, then TR-ed it so I could try the crack alone. Made me fall. I was humbled. Second attempt no problem, but at least those looking for a harder lead can give that a shot.
As has been mentioned before, it's a one-move wonder. But that one move was trickier than I had expected. The crack wasn't great for jamming (at least for someone with large hands like mine) being a bit flaring, smooth and at entirely the wrong angle. Laybacks are possible but pumpy. A better (cheating?) option is to reach up and about 2' right of the top of the crack to the jugs and just mantle it. Nice climb, but far from the best at the rock.
By DFrench From: Boulder, CO Jul 21, 2007 rating: 5.8
*A note of caution to any who desire to TR this route: the (climber's) LEFT bolt-hanger is attached by a very loose nut, i.e. it comes unscrewed slowly with use. [as of July 20th 2007]. This is also the case with the route to the right, Ho Hum
And, as was posted in the general forum, one of the new bolt-hangers from Idle Hands is still missing.
By Pebby Johns From: Boulder, Colorado Aug 8, 2007
All the anchors for the routes at Boulderado have been fixed. Since this area is so heavily used, we checked all the anchors that we put in and fastened them all with Locktight. This repair took place 8/6/2007. Pebby Johns
The Boulderado
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