The crux. Tricky moves angle left using sidepulls ...
Description
This is the leftmost route at the crag. After an initially powerful move, balance your way up the tricky seam to the top. Don't be afraid to traverse slightly left of the bolts when the climbing turns thin.
Protection
Standard sport rack. 7 bolts to a two bolt anchor. The climb stops at the roof, and the bolts for the anchor are about a yard apart. Addendum: apparently these anchors have been fixed.
Top left, cold-shut anchor is a spinner, with shaft and hole eroded, if folks clean off any more to the left, downgrade to 5.10, nevertheless still cool....
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Oct 29, 2003
Although this as well as Robbin' The Hood are shown in the Rossiter Boulder Canyon guidebook (p. 47) as continuing past the 7th bolt, the rock above is covered in lichen. We ended up traversing right along the ledge and continuing to the top of Prince of Theives, which ends up being about 12 bolts (total) to a 2 bolt anchor and makes for a nice, slightly longer linkup.
Devious climbing if you don't escape left to the right-trending rail at the bottom. The anchors seem straight up dangerous; too far apart, left one spins, and awkward to clip. Besides, this thing should pull the roof; it looks like it would go sub 5.12. Maybe some new anchors (does anyone even care)?
By Jeremy From: Boulder, CO Jun 16, 2008 rating: 5.11a
I really liked this route. I climbed it clean just after doing another 11b, so it's probably more like 11a. I escaped left and had a hard time cleaning the route. I couldn't tell if the route was supposed to continue through the lichen or stop at the 2 bolts that were 4 feet apart.
Just an update. Did this route today and someone has been generous enough to fix the anchor situation referred to above. There is a sold two bolt anchor w/ rings directly above the line of the climb.