Wall of Winter Warmth

Boulder Falls approach closed on 3/30/09 MORE INFO >>> Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks has temporarily closed Boulder Falls due to potentially unsafe conditions in the cliffs above the falls. No date was set for reopening the area. Boulder Falls was still closed as of 5/19/09. The only legal access to Lower Dream Canyon during this closure is via Upper Dream Canyon. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

BETA PHOTO: Lower Dream Canyon

Description 

This particular rock is likely the tallest in Lower Dream Canyon with lines up to 4 pitches in length. Some older routes dating back to at least the 1960s are mixed in with newer bolted lines from the 2000s. This granite is steep, featured, and devious in spots. There is still loose rock and plenty of guano in spots, so be careful! This entry was made to help organize the Lower Dream Canyon area.

Descent: You can rappel, you can scramble off to the R, or you can hike around to the R from the top (be careful of tourists & fisherpeople below). Loose in spots but improved over the years.

L->R:

Lowest buttress
A. Escutcheon, 10, 1p, gear.
B. Mini Moe, 2, 1p, gear.
C. Closed Open Space, 9, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. Alpha Bob, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Leader of The Pack, 11+, 1p, 120', bolts & gear.
F. The Slit, 9+, 1p, 100', gear.

Main buttress
G. On The Bough, 11+, 1p, 60', bolts.
H. Angle of Repose, 12-, 2p, 180', bolts.
I. Left Side, 10-, 3p, 400'?, gear.
J. Cop Out, 9 R, 3p, gear.
K. Direct Cop Out, 10, 3p, gear & bolts.
L. The Titleist, 11-, 2p, 190', gear & bolts.
M. Right Side, 10-, 3p, gear.
NN. Mordor, 12, 2p, 150', bolts.
O. The Prisoner, 12-, 1p, gear.
P. Bed Hog, 13-, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.

QQ? Melons, 9, 1p, gear.

Getting There 

Refer to directions noted in the Lower Dream Canyon. Park at Boulder Falls, hike up to the hole up & L of the Falls, drop down to water level. There are single bolts set for an exciting Tyrolean but it may be best to climb during low water of fall, winter, or early spring when you can hop across on boulders or wade more manageable currents.

The Classics

Featured Route For Wall of Winter Warmth

Mordor 5.12b/c  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Wall of Winter Warmth

Mordor second pitch is by far one of the most spectacular in the Boulder area. Pitch one: 5.10d Start 50 feet right of "Direct Route" on a ledge with several pine trees. Climb up a dog-leg crack (tricky start and gear) to a ledge. Follow a thin seam past two bolts up to a two-bolt-anchor.Pitch two: 5.12b/c Climb up to first bolt and make committing moves out left towards the arete. Make a hard, technical move past the second bolt and reach a good...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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BETA PHOTO: Routes at the bottom of the Wall of Winter Warmth,...	BETA PHOTO: Routes on the Wall of Winter Warmth. Left Side rou...	BETA PHOTO: Upper and Lower Dream Canyon Modified from origin...
The Wall of Winter Warmth as seen from below Bould...