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Plotinus Wall

Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 22, 2002
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac
Latitude: 40.0068  Longitude: -105.4064 
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Boulder Falls approach closed on 3/30/09 MORE INFO >>>

BETA PHOTO: Plotinus Wall, left side


Description 

Lots of excellent 5.10 and 5.11 sport climbs have been established here over the past few years, mostly by Bob D'Antonio and Vaino Kodas. A few routes require some supplementary gear in addition to the bolts, so be sure to check the route description before you head up a climb with just quickdraws.

Bring a 60m rope; there was a serious lowering accident here in 2004 when a belayer let the end of the rope slip through his belay device, and the leader fell 25' to the ground and suffered serious injuries.

There are also a few trad climbs and runout bolted climbs established many years ago by Jim Erickson, Dan Hare, and others, but these are seldom climbed today.


Getting There 

From the intersection of Broadway and Colorado 119 in Boulder, follow Colorado 119 west towards the town of Nederland. About eight miles up the Canyon turn left into a large parking area for Boulder Falls.

From the Boulder Falls "trail" walk in on the 'tourist path' until you nearly come to a park bench. Switchback to the left between some caged rocks and a tree. Switchback again to the right on top of the rocks. Above you is a second set of caged rocks - pass these on the left (south) end, or climb over. From here, angle up and right on a faint path. There were some small cairns leading the way on 7/12/03. You are aiming for a small 'tunnel' near a dead tree that is, again, up and right from the caged rocks.

Pass through the tunnel and hike steeply down the other side, heading to the water's edge, and follow a path upstream to a boulder jumble. The Plotinus Wall should be clearly visible uphill at 11:00, and the Wall of Winter Warmth at about 1:00, across the creek.

Head up through the boulders to the bottom of the wall, just below the bolted slab, "The Scientist".


Routes 

Per Greg Hand: beginning with the route farthest up the hill (Left).

My Buddy 10b/c (start with Bedtime Story, then branch left)
Bedtime Story 10b
Sleepless Child 9 (all gear, 1980) follow crack thru tree
Morpheus 11c - Long, right-facing corner
Wake Up Call 10b
Snooze Button 10b
Chore Boy 10b/c (shares 1st bolt with Snooze)
Smell the Coffee 10a
The Daily Grind 10d
Caffeine Buzz 8 (2nd pitch for Smell the Coffee or Daily Grind)
Napster 10c (4 bolts along flake)
Something Obscure 10- (1975 crack, Erickson)
Tooth Fairy 11c
Mr. Sandman 10c (behind tree)
Golden Slumber 10d
Sleepless in Boulder 11a/b
The Art of Dreaming 12b/c (rising traverse right)
The Bobsled 12a
War on Freedom, 13
Lucky Strikes 12b Big, inside corner
Old bolt route right of corner - 11a?

The following routes begin from a ledge:

The Scientist 11a/b (impossible looking slab)
Plotinus 10 (all gear, 1974) follow rising crack
Rama 11a (V-shaped corner)
Lucid Dreaming 13a (arete)

The following routes are around to the right on a ledge overlooking the creek:

Boulder Quartz System 12a/b
Tooth and Nail 11a/b (same start as Counting Sheep, then left)
Counting Sheep 11b
Sominex 11a/b (start with crack or scramble to ledge from right)
Sleep Deprivation 10c (start with crack or scramble to ledge from right)

Below the ledge is one route:

I Have a Dream 11a 4 bolts


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Plotinus Wall:
Mr. Sandman   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Left Side
Bedtime Story   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Left Side
Snooze Button   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Left Side
Chore Boy   5.10b/c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Left Side
Golden Slumber   5.10d     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Left Side
Morpheus   5.11a/b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   Left Side
Sleepless in Boulder   5.11a/b     Sport, 1 pitch   Left Side
Tooth and Nail   5.11a/b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Right Side
The Scientist   5.11a/b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Middle
The Bobsled   5.11c/d     Sport, 1 pitch   Left Side
Boulder Quartz System   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch   Right Side
Lucky Strikes   5.12b     Sport, 1 pitch   Left Side
The Art of Dreaming   5.12     Sport, 1 pitch   Left Side
Lucid Dreaming   5.12d     Sport, 1 pitch   Middle
Browse More Classics in Plotinus Wall

Featured Route For Plotinus Wall
Ridge dreaming of air well before the crux on LC; photo by Bob Ratliff.

Lucid Dreaming 5.12d  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Middle
Just right of Rama on the Plotinus Wall is a beautiful, overhanging arete. This is Lucid Dreaming. Stick-clip the first bolt then power up a series of tricky, strenuous moves to a stopper move near the the fourth bolt. Crank up over the bulge and follow the steep face up to a two-bolt anchor. Classic and hard arete climbing on beautiful granite. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of Plotinus Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Plotinus Wall, middle.

BETA PHOTO: Plotinus Wall, middle.

Plotinus Wall, right side

BETA PHOTO: Plotinus Wall, right side

The Plotinus Wall

BETA PHOTO: The Plotinus Wall

Upper and Lower Dream Canyon<br /><br />Modified from original by Vaino Kodas.

BETA PHOTO: Upper and Lower Dream Canyon

Modified from origin...


Lower Dream Canyon

BETA PHOTO: Lower Dream Canyon


Comments on Plotinus Wall Add Comment
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By S. Kimball
Oct 22, 2002

This place is magnificent,Plotinus and Wall W.W... but whats the deal? Is there any other approach besides the obvious tresspass above Boulder Falls Trail? And what's the status of the rocks themself?

By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Mar 17, 2003

I have a suggestion for the Plotinus wall. If someone could put together a topo showing the routes from left to right with names and grades, they would be a lot easier to locate. The descriptions currently refer to an adjacent route which often refers to another adjacent route, and so on, making it harder to figure out what's what. How about it, Bob?

By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Mar 24, 2003

In response to Peter's request for ordering the routes, I have tried to to that. Thanks to Vaino for some of the info.

Plotinus Wall routes Left to Right
Beginning with the route farthest up the hill (Left).

My Buddy 10b/c * (start with Bedtime Story, then branch left)
Bedtime Story 10b **
Sleepless Child 9 (all gear, 1980) follow crack thru tree
Morpheus 11c ** - Long right-facing corner
Wake Up Call 10b **
Snooze Button 10b ***
Chore Boy 10b/c ** (shares 1st bolt with Snooze)
Smell the Coffee 10a **
The Daily Grind 10d *
Caffeine Buzz 8 * (2nd pitch for Smell the Coffee or Daily Grind)
Napster 10c * (4 bolts along flake)
Something Obscure 10- (1975 crack, Erickson)
Tooth Fairy 11c **
Mr. Sandman 10c ** (behind tree)
Golden Slumber 10d **
Sleepless in Boulder 11a/b **
The Art of Dreaming 12b/c ** (rising traverse right)
The Bobsled 12a **
Project
Lucky Strikes 12b ** Big inside corner
Old bolt route right of corner - 11a?

The following routes begin from a ledge:

The Scientist 11a/b *** (impossible looking slab)
Plotinus 10 (all gear, 1974) follow rising crack
Rama 11a ** (V-shaped corner)
Lucid Dreaming 13a *** (arete)

The following routes are around to the right on a ledge overlooking the creek:

Boulder Quartz System 12a/b **
Tooth and Nail 11a/b ** (same start as Counting Sheep, then left)
Counting Sheep 11b *
Sominex 11a/b * (start with crack or scramble to ledge from right)
Sleep Deprivation 10c * (start with crack or scramble to ledge from right)

Below the ledge is one route:

I Have a Dream 11a * 4 bolts

By Matt Chan
From: Denver, CO
Jun 22, 2004

I love the VK initials hidden in the photos for this area. Thanks for the fantastic topos Vaino!

By bwillem
From: WTF, MI
Jun 30, 2007

Has the project right of the Bobsled been sent? Grade?

By Matt Lippmann
From: San Rafael, CA
Sep 1, 2007

I was just up at Plotinus today and saw multiple signs indicating the climbing areas are closed. Anyone know what the deal is?

By chuck ziulkowski
Mar 18, 2008

I sent the project, War on Freedom, March 8th. Does anyone know if it's been sent before? Let me know. I think it's 13 b/c.
chuck ziulkowski

By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Mar 20, 2008

Good for him--that's a hard climb, even if you're tall. Good to hear he's in shape!

By Phill T
Jun 29, 2008

Tried to climb here on 6/28/08, the trail from Boulder Falls is closed citing that it is private property. Any other way in besides hiking all the way down from Upper Dream?

By Tacochamp
Oct 18, 2008

Found a rope in a blue rope bag on Sat Oct 18th - left by a group of 3 climbers. Contact me if it's yours.