BETA PHOTO: The Overlook and Broken Rock. Photo taken from th...
Description
A good cliff with a selection of trad and sport climbs. There are 12 routes so far. The crag is the upper tier of Broken Rock and offers great views in a quiet setting high above Boulder Creek.
L->R:
A. Transylvania, 11, 1p, 70', 2 bolts & gear to #3 Camalot. Cracks to "bat flake" to steep face. Starts at pine tree by cave. B. ?Yosemite Sam?, 10+, 1p, 60', small-to-medium cams. Overhanging crack 15' L of C. C. Louisville Slugger, 11+, 1p, 60', 5 bolts & red Alien. Overhanging face 10' L of E. D. Golden Child, 11, 1p, 60', 4 bolts & cams to #3 Camalot. Overhanging face to crack 5' L of E. E. Straight Out of Compton, 8+, 1p, 70', gear to #3 Camalot. Twin cracks & corner to flake/bulge. F. Denver Nugget, 7+, 1p, 60', gear to #3 Camalot. Pod 10' R of E. G. Minnesota Fats, 10, 1p, 70', gear to #1 Camalot. Thin crack to shallow offset corners. 35' downhill & L of J. H. Lobo 10, 1p, 70', gear to #3 Camalot. Steep face to hanging flakes. Just R of G. I. Greenfield, 11, 1p, 80', bolt & gear to #1 Camalot. Bulge to finger crack. Just R of H. J. Philadelphia Flyer, 11, 1p, 60', 2 bolts & gear to #2 Camalot. Corners to hand crack through roof. 10' L of K. K. Jersey Devil 9+, 1p, 60', 3 bolts & medium gear. Corners & roofs on R side of cliff. L. The Probe 11+, 1p, 50', 4 bolts & 1 piece of medium gear. Climb the roof 10' R of K.
Obscurity Risk?, 12-
Flake Right?, 7
Getting There
Park as for Castle Rock. Cross the bridge and skirt the right (west) side of Broken Rock. At the top of Broken Rock traverse left and reach the far right side of the Overlook. The first route you get to is The Probe; the remaining routes are left and downhill from there.
Approach takes 10-15 minutes.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Overlook:
Follow directions for "Philadelphia Flyer". Start about 30 to 40 feet downhill from PF. Climb up a thin crack to reach double cracks/seams. Cool stemming and good gear will get you to the anchors. Great route! ...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
T, the route with fixed nuts/pins is an existing climb rated 12a. I forget which guide I saw it in. It would be more friendly if the gear were "updated", but the FAs would need to do that.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Jun 5, 2006
According to Rossiter's Boulder Canyon guidebook, the route is Obscurity Risk, 12a, FA by Don DeBieux, 1993.
I found this crag a disappointment as most climbs are over after ten or fifteen feet. Momentum Operator on Broken Rock, along the approach, seemed much more worthwhile.
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