BETA PHOTO: Hillbilly Rock #1, Left Side. I Reckon, 12a...
Description
New crags seem to magically appear in Boulder Canyon... how long can it last? Previously unnamed, the lowest of the Hillbilly Rocks offers six routes graded 5.8 to 5.12a. The right side harbors the easiest route and the poorest stone - the rock gets better and the climbing harder as you go left. It is in the shade in the morning.
Upstream from the Riviera, park in the pullout on the right (N side), just where the road widens to include a passing lane. The Inca Stone (aka Truth or Consequences) is just up the road and also on the right. Walk up the road a few yards, and find a poor trail that follows a steep drainage up the hill. There is a fair amount of poison ivy in the gully, especially on the R side.
From the bottom, you can just see the glimmer of bolts on the left-most of the six routes.
I did not name the rock. But, hey, a lot of work must have gone into these hick names!
BTW, there are two more routes on the left side that I have not done. The left-most is I Reckon, 12a, and can (barely) be seen from the road. Right of this is Boy Howdy, 11b.
Wow! The leap from 10c to 11b on these routes is intense. Perhaps I was suffering from cranial rectitus, but the 10bs and the 10c seemed underrated while the 11b and 12a were quite burley for their grades.
The crag has a slight western exposure, so was in the shade till noon when we visited in May. And if you follow the existing trail you'll have more fun than we did wandering through the poison ivy covered rock slopes. From the parking described above, scramble up to a large pine tree. The trail then skirts a low wall, and stays on the left side (looking up) of the gully. A few cairns would help channel traffic and eventually lead to a better trail, if anybody got motivated to build them.
I visited this crag yesterday. Worth the one day visit, but now sporting many thistles at the base, but doable. There are 6 routes working easier to harder from right to left. The best approach(avoiding all Ivy): head up the right side of the drawthat you see straight up from the very beginning (going up canyon) of the turnout. Take this straight up to a cliff and skirt left to Hillbilly.