The Beer Can

If you cross the creek by the upper end of the parking area across from the Boulderado, you'll find a trail angling up and right toward the left side of the Beer Can. Take this trail up to the rock, and scramble up to a small ledge with two bolted belay anchors. The left belay anchor is for Hydraulic Sandwich (10b); the right anchor is for Drink To Puke (10c) and Icy Paralyzer (11a). There's enough room on the ledge to stash your pack, but you may want to gear up below, since the ledge is quite exposed. Bring a 60-meter rope, 10 quickdraws, 5 extendable runners, something for the belay anchors, and something for the 3-bolt anchor at the top. The routes zig-zag, and doing them with only short quickdraws will cause severe rope drag. All three routes are well-protected and a lot of fun: two stars for clean rock, airy moves, and variety. Hydraulic Sandwich has 12 bolts, Drink To Puke has 14, and Icy Paralyzer has 15, all in 90 to 95 feet. Drink To Puke seemed easier than10c; perhaps 9+ or 10a; the ratings on the other routes seemed accurate. All three routes are well-described in Rossiter's and Rolofson's guidebooks.

These routes are better, more sustained, and harder than most modern Boulder Canyon sport routes of a similar grade (eg, at Sleeping Beauty, Avalon, Plotinus, Bowling Alley).

Above the top anchors is a beer can wedged in a crack--Bud Lite. Is the crag named after the can, or was the can placed to let you know you are at the right crag?

Fun climbs. The approach was a little full of poison ivy so be sure to rinse off in the river on your way back to the car. Watch your rope on those edges!