High Energy Crag

BETA PHOTO: High Energy Crag as seen from the road. Cross the ...

Description 

In the late 70s and early 80s High Energy Crag saw a lot of action for its clean cracks on bullet-proof Boulder Granite. While the crag is small and never gets great sun, it can offer several moderate trad lines with a minimal approach and real respite from the sweltering heat. Most of the routes take off from above the slab and in the right facing dihedral. "Proton" at 5.9 and "Diet of Worms" at 5.10a are certainly fine lines that take excellent pro and offer up some of the sweetest jams in Boulder Canyon. HEC also hosts a couple of 5.11s that are well worth jumping on, and everything here can be done with a small rack of cams or a fist full of stoppers - just bring the whole range. The dihedral can be approached in many ways, so pick the most comfortable one. A couple of big Friends can be placed at the base for a belay and belays at the top are plentiful too - or head for the tree. HEC used to be a Boulder Canyon gem, and it still is.

L->R:

A. Eugenics Wars?, 12 , 1p, 40', gear.
B. No Preservatives? 10, 1p, 40', gear.
C. Star Span?, 11, 1p, 40', gear.
D. Golden Bull?, 10, 1p, 40', gear.
E. Proton?, 9 - hmmm, 1p, 40', gear.
F. Neutron Star, 10- R, 1p, 40', gear.
G. Diet Of Worms, 10a-, 1p, 40', gear.
H. Imp-Passible Crack, 11-, 1p, 40', gear.
I. Next to Imp-Passible?, 9, 1p, 40', gear.

Getting There 

Drive 9.1 miles up the canyon. Park as for Easter Rock but cross the stream at the obvious crag with a large right facing dihedral.