Colleen is getting set for the crux, left hand, re...
Description
This is a crag with a bunch of advanced sport climbs that winds up staying fairly shady for much of the day. It has vertical to slightly-overhanging terrain that generally emphasizes power over technique. There are about 28 climbs here on its east & north faces. The aesthetic Empire of the Fenceless certainly draws the eye. Some routes require gear. Apparently, the word is that this crag can stay dry in some rain.
There is other rock in the area just downhill, but it is less intriguing.
This crag is easier to spy going uphill than downhill. It lies close to the road, about 8.9 miles from Elephant Buttresses. Parking below the cliff can be limited. At times, this short trail feels like bush-whacking, depending on the time of the year. Hike 3-5 minutes.
Guidebooks
Mark Rolofson has an excellent Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide, Volume II, The Upper Canyon. Consider it for more details.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Easter Rock:
This route begins just right of arete, at the obvious crack system. Climb up the fun crack to a nice rest, then continue up and right into the dihedral. The crux of this route involves climbing up into and over the bulge to jugs. There seem to be a couple different ways of approaching this section, so fight off the pump and enjoy yourself on this solid climb. ...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
I don't think this was climbed on much by "the hard men" before it was bolted. One of the best routes here is Elanor but it has several bolts where it's easier to place #1 Camalots. Route-squeezing has given this place a trashy feel.
Don't know about the various controversies here, but I will add that this crag has fun, thought-provoking routes with interesting sequences...that stay dry in the rain!
Can someone identify the several routes not in the guidebook to the left of Knappweed Herbacide (the 5.10 warm-up)? I see that "Chickenshit" and "Surrounded" are in the database, but I see at least 4 lines to the left of Knappweed.
There are three routes that I was aware of, Chickenshit, etc (takes the left side of the roof with kind of a shoulder wrenching move), Trustafarian Panhandler (up the center of the roof, rails to a burly lip move), and Surrounded by Reality (more to the right with the crux actually lower about half way to the roof). There is, or was more room for routes in this area, including second pitches as well.
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