The Bihedral (Upper Tier)

On 3/14/07, Mike Amato and I installed a new 2-bolt rappel anchor about 50' left of the Bihedral Route/Rhodian Shores/Hold The Line area. This provides a descent back to hiking terrain without having to do the 3rd-class downclimb.

From the ledge below the start of these climbs, walk climber's left (west) about 50' to the end of the ledge and a 2-bolt rappel anchor. Rap 95' down a gully to the top of the approach trail. A 60m rope works fine. See ??.

Just FYI, this is not a great approach for our canine companions. I've twice seen climbers attempting to bring their dogs here, once successful with a few scary dog-moves on the traverse, and once bailed entirely. Best just to leave them at home for the day if you're going to climb here.

I will say it again but Mountain Project will probably remove my remarks like they did before. There is no reason whatsoever to have a rap station where Ron put it. You can climb 3rd class up but you need a rap station to get down. Just save your bolts to squeeze in yet another route on a crag that is now over run with routes. Loose rock is right!!

I have to admit it does seem crazy to have rappel alternative to a 3rd class downclimb. I noticed these bolts when we were up there but we just walked down. I suppose the bolts could be useful in a downpour, or something. Since they are there, I'd not suggest removing them.

Don't use the rappel if you don't want to -- but it's useful in bad weather, if you have a heavy pack, or if it's getting dark. I did a lot of route development at the crag in the winter, and came down that rappel by headlamp several times, with a 40-lb. pack. I wouldn't have wanted to do the 3rd-class downclimb in those conditions.

So all you hardmen, do the downclimb blindfolded if it makes you feel superior to us gumbies who do the rappel -- I really don't care. The rap anchor is staying.

And cdg -- if the Bihedral is such a crappy place to climb, go someplace else; no one is forcing you to endure the terrible conditions there. You won't be missed by all those who are having a good time at the crag.

You might also try contributing something positive, both to this site and the local climbing community, instead of just bitching about something you don't like.

Ron, I am not trying to be an ass . All I was saying is that I don't think it is nessessary. This area was once a great place with some great routes, but now it can be down right dangerous with all the new climbs. 45 people on that one ledge is just not right. That is what I experienced one day, and you were there, so you have seen it too. Just food for thought when you guys are putting in new routes.

cdg -- the most people I've seen at the Bihedral is 31 (not 45), on a sunny and warm Sunday Feb. 22, 2009. The Bihedral is one of the nicest places in Boulder Canyon for moderate climbing on warm winter days; hence the crowds.

We've done our best to make the area safe and fun. All of my new routes have lowering hooks instead of ring anchors, which reduces the possibility of screwups while cleaning toprope anchors, and lets climbers get in more pitches in less time. The climbs are well protected and the rock is clean. We've removed a lot of loose rock, but some still remains -- on It's Time For Change and perhaps other routes. Be careful and wear a helmet if others are climbing above you.

Sorry if crowds bother you, but the area is popular for a reason. Climb during the week or on a hot day -- you'll have the crag to yourself.

Used the rappel bolts tonight when the rain moved in after our 3rd climb. Very quick and handy. Thank you Ron and Mike for putting those in, as it saved us a slippery descent.

Had some fun on the Dan's Line slab today...thanks for giving us directions down at the road, Ron!
We belayed a little lower down from where you're supposed to I think, down by the dirt and pine trees. A little more comfortable than higher up, and it's in the shade. Two caveats: it's a long way up to the first bolt (but the climbing is easy), and my 70m was getting fairly close to the end when I came back down after setting it up for top roping.

There is a new bolted route just left of Group Therapy, which I led today, which I believe has been put in since fall 2008. Felt like 5.10+ at a couple of moves in the crux near top, though most of rest of route was easier. If I'm not mistakened, I do not see that this route is documented here. Is this a new route, or am I mistakened? Thanks for the info....

Just read all the past comments on the highly popular area developed primarily by Ron Olsen, and noticed the negative comments about the rap bolts placed by Ron left of the main belaying area for the Upper Tier. This may be a little bit belated but:

To the negative commenters about the rap anchors: hey, get a life, will ya? Go ahead and downclimb the 4th class approach if you want; why bother about commenting about it here, spreading confusion and disinformation?

This is a SPORT climbing area, is relatively high up on the canyon wall, and is quite susceptible to sudden thunderstorm activity. EVERY time I've been up to this area (about 6 times in the past 6 months) EVERY body uses the rap anchors, and PREFERS to use them (even in good weather). Downclimbing is more difficult than climbing up, especially with a pack; and the 4th class climb up is certainly exposed during the initial section. Installing these rap anchors, at a very sensible location, only makes sense given the exposed descent route.

I was rained off this area on a recent afternoon in a pounding rainstorm (on Fri, June 26), and I and my partners MUCH, MUCH appreciated that these rap anchors were there! Thank you Ron for putting them in!

Rick,
Does it really matter that this is "now" a sport climbing area. Was not allways that way.That was my point!! Again, I was not trying to dig in deep about climbing politics,just didn't think it was something the area needed.4th class? Please.Down climbing in the rain? Welcome to the mountains city folks.