Eagle Rock is a frequently overlooked crag on the South side of Boulder canyon. It sits deep in the canyon and across the creek from the road. While the crag is close to 400ft high, only some of the older trad routes extend its full length. Most of the new bolted sport routes are between 80 and 100ft in length. I found the rock to be a little different from typical Boulder Canyon granite, and some of these unusual features are described in the route descriptions. The main new wall has been called "The Stars and Stripes Wall" by Mark Rolofson in his year 2000 guide to Boulder Canyon. The climbing is vertical to overhanging and generally runs from upper 5.11 to middle 5.13 or so. A few serious projects remain to be red pointed. Mark has done an incredible job of keeping track of the FA data, as is well documented in his guide.
L->R (incomplete):
A. Chicken Delight, 8, 2p, gear. B. Gros Vogel, 8 A2, 3p, gear. C? Iggle, 11, 1p, bolts. D? Iggle Direct, 11, 1p, bolts. E. Frei Vogel, 9 R, 3p, gear. F. Eagle Tricks, 12-, 1p, bolts. G. Eagle Snacks, 10, 1p, 80', bolts. H. Eagle Chick, 11-, 1p, 80', bolts. I. Eagle Eyes, 12-, 1p, 70', bolts. J. Eagle Hardware, 11, 1p, 80', bolts. K. Golden Eagle, 11+, 1p, 80', bolts. L. Eagle Warrior, 13, 1p, bolts. M. Buddha Belly, 13-, 1p, bolts. N1. Green Panther, 12+, 1p, bolts. N2. Stoner Homeland, 13-, 1p, 40', bolts. O?. Screaming War Eagle, 10, 3p, gear. P. Great Dihedral, 6, 2p, ~280', gear. Q. To The Sun, 5, 2p, 300', gear. R. Right Face, 5, 2p, gear.
Getting There
Eagle Rock is 6.2 miles up Boulder Canyon. Parking can be found near by and on both sides of the road. Hike down to the stream and cross as you can. A Tyrolean Traverse was still up at the end of last year, and may still be in place. If not, the talus in the stream can be hopped over, or the stream waded. The Stars and Stripes Wall is just about dead center in the middle of the crag and is approached by a good trail that was put in by the new route developers.
A burly overhang 20 feet right of Golden Eagle, not the route just right. Work up to a big hollow overlap, then battle through flared cracks and sidepulls to a final layback up a smooth crack/groove. Strenuous, insecure, and complicated. Stays in the shade until 1 pm. Don't even think about it in the sun unless it's pretty cold. A real classic....[more]Browse More Classics in CO
I was up at Eagle Rock looking for the Stars and Stripes Wall today, 10-16-03. I somehow ended up much too far on the north side of the wall and ended up climbing a bolted traverse that went into a dihedral. I was wondering if anyone had any information as to what I was climbing on. By the way, the route was not that cool. Thanks.
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