Chuck Grossman doing it right in boxer shorts and ...
Description
There are a number of classic climbs on this 350-foot rock, one of the earlier crags in the canyon tackled by local hardmen in the 50s, 60s, and 70s. When Robbins and Ament freed Athlete's Feat (11a) in 1964, it became the hardest free climb in America. Virtually all the climbs here are traditional, multi-pitch crack routes. The rock tends to be a little slick. Exit off the top to the north, scrambling down some class 3 and class 4 ramps and ledges.
There are a couple more modern testpieces, Headline 14- & Deadline 13+/14-, on this crag.
There is a gravel road that circles around the west, south, and east side of the crag. It is a popular spot for other recreationalists besides climbers.
Getting There
About 12 miles up the canyon, Castle Rock looms up on the left side at the apex of a right hand turn. Turn off just past the rock to a large dirt pullout directly underneath the west face. Talk about easy access!
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Castle Rock:
This is one of the very best climbs around Boulder, and a great testpiece for the very solid 5.10 leader (which I, apparently, am not!). It starts just west of the SE corner of Castle rock--just left of Country Club Crack.The first pitch (right off the road) is identified by a pointy boulder with a bolt above it, and a ledge above that. From there the route moves left and follows an obvious, large, zig-zag right facing dihedral.P1:Mantle onto t...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
Does anyone know what the deal is with the new direct start to the sweet crack on Never A Dull Moment. It is really only one bolt above the original first bolt but it allows passage into the start of the amazing second pitch crack without doing the silly slab traverse start of the original route. Who added and sent this logical and way better start?
Because Castle Rock has long been popular for picnicing, I'd say the Forest Service is about fifty years overdue for the installation of outhouses and trashcans. Especially compared to the facilities you find on Forest Service land near other Colorado ski areas.
Get with it Nederland, Boulder, and Eldora Ski Area. It shouldn't just be up to the Forest Service to treat our tourists like valued customers.
By Allen Hill From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine Sep 12, 2008
For some reason I seem to remember the city of Boulder has sway over Castle Rock. I remember picnicking there as a very young child with my family and the picnic tables along the creek were all maintained. And I'm certain it was Boulder that did it. In high school we'd leave party's on friday nights and drive up the canyon and bivi where the tables use to be. Great fun.
Hey now! FYI: new anchors on Curving Crack. New S.face rappel, dig: top of Athlete's Feat is a sloping ramp. First anchor is on the edge of said ramp. Next is at the top of the 3rd pitch. This was two OLD pitons, that judging by the webbing and biners someone actually rap'd on. Not good.... So, there are also bolts @ top of 1st, 2nd, and 4th pitches, so you can get down fer-sure with this route. Yeah yeah, I know you can down-climb the N. face. Now you can rap the South. All bolts are 3/8 ss with chains/rings, 3.5" long. Have fun and be careful out there!
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