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Main Crag

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Amazing Face 
Bad Girls Get Spanked 
Bloodstone 
Bowling Ball and Chain 
Chihuahua Enchilada 
Digital Divide 
Frothing Green 
Gutter Ball 
Lucky Strike 
Meteor Rhoadblock 
Midge Squadron 
Mosquito Burrito 
Mosquito Dihedral 
Next to Nothing 
Oil Pan Hook Shot 
Shiny Dog 
Singin' in the Rain 
Take the Termites Bowling 
Woody's Landlord 

Main Crag

Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac
Views: 7,455 page views

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BETA PHOTO: Map of BC from Dream Canyon to Easter Rock


Description 

A relatively newly bolted crag just east of Practice Rock. Somebody went bolt-crazy on this rock, but the result is very well protected routes. It's a steep dihedral; the east face is a solid slab, while the west face feels inverted and a little more crumbly. With a 60m rope, there's a great belay station with a nice rock as a bench. This is section contains the bulk of the routes on this crag.

The following routes are on Main Crag of Bowling Alley, about 75 yards before Practice Rock. L->R:

A. Lucky Strike, 11, 1p, 100', bolts.
B. Frothing Green, 11-, 1p, 105', bolts
C. Next To Nothing, 12, 2p, 105', bolts.
D. Amazing Face, 12+, 2p, 105', bolts.
E. Meteor Roadblock, 12, 1p, 55', bolts.
F. Super Bon Bon, 12, 1p, 55', bolts.
G. Shiny Dog, 12+, 1p, 50', bolts.
H. Taking The Termites Bowling, 11, 1p, 45', bolts.

Above a ledge half-way up:

AA. P2 of Next To Nothing, 12, 1p, bolts.
BB. continuation of Amazing Face, 12+, 1p, bolts.
CC. Bloodstone, 11, 1p, 55', bolts.
DD. Oil Pan Hook Shot, 11-, 1p, 50', bolts.
EE. Singin' in the Rain, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
FF. Bowling Ball And Chain, 10-, 1p, 50', bolts.

Down and R:

I. Digital Divide, 10+, 1p, 40', bolts.
J. Midge Squadron, 11, 1p, 90', bolts.
K. Bad Girls Get Spanked, 11, 1p, 90',bolts.
L. Mosquito Dihedral, 8, 1p, 105', gear.
M. Mosquito Burrito, 8 or 9, 1p, 105', bolts.
N. Chihuahua Enchilada, 10+ R, 1p, gear.


Getting There 

At 8.1 miles from the entrance to Boulder Canyon (the first bridge you cross - see Yahoo! map) there is a small turn off. It's on the right side, just below practice rock, about 300 yards past Boulder falls. The crag is about 50 yards east and 30 yards up the hill from the parking lot.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Crag:
Mosquito Dihedral   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   
Mosquito Burrito   5.8     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 105 feet   
Bad Girls Get Spanked   5.11     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   
Midge Squadron   5.11b/c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   
Take the Termites Bowling   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Meteor Rhoadblock   5.12a/b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Next to Nothing   5.12b     Sport, 2 pitches, 60 feet   
Amazing Face   5.12c     Sport, 2 pitches   
Browse More Classics in Main Crag

Photos of Main Crag Slideshow Add Photo
Frothing Green, on the upper part of the Bowling Alley

BETA PHOTO: Frothing Green, on the upper part of the Bowling A...


Comments on Main Crag Add Comment
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By Ivan Rezucha
Jan 11, 2003

Is this named the Bowling Alley because of the car noise? (Bowling alleys are loud.) It's extremely loud and distracting. It made communication hard at times even though we were only about 60-80 feet apart.

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 3, 2005
Gear Alert

I was climbing here a couple of weeks ago on that unnamed 5.9 that's only 3 bolts. I was toproping, and as I went to clean the route, I pulled a pretty big chunk of rock off right below the anchors. I don't know for certain if it compromised the integrity of the anchors, but I didn't trust it much (since I was up there!). It wasn't that the anchors were going or anything, but it was scary how easily I yanked off that big chunk. It just makes me wonder a bit about the rock that the anchors are drilled in to. I'm no rock master or anything, but I would suggest either not climbing it at all, and if you absolutely have to, then don't toprope it and rap off the anchors when you clean it. I'm probably being overly cautious here, and I'm sure it's probably fine, but I would feel awful if people didn't at least know about it and something did happen. Sorry to post as an "anonymous coward!" I don't have much time to set up a name.