Approaching the crux on the Buzz. Photo taken by ...
Description
Interesting rock with good features. Lots of colorful lichen. A little longer hike than Blob rock, but well worth it. Descent is possible by hiking off the backside of the rock to the NW, then down a gully to the East of Blob rock. This is a small crag divided into 4 entirely distinct sections:
L->R:
Up & Right A. Moby Dike, 9, 1p, 60', bolts. B. Leaping Lizards, 11+, 1p, gear & bolts.
Peapod Buttress C. Treetop Landing, 9, 1p, gear. D. Palm Saturday, 12, 1p, TR. E. Razor Hein Stick 12, 1p, bolts & gear. F1. Split Pea, 11+, 1p, gear & bolt. F2. Peapod, 11, 1p, 60', gear. G. Holy Ascension, 13- or A4, 1p, gear or TR. H. The Hand is Quicker Than the Eye, 12, 1p, gear & bolts. I. Jaguary, 11- R, 1p, gear. J. Jam Left aka Left Crack, 9+, 1p, 40', gear. K. Right Crack, 10-, 1p, gear.
Main Buttress L. Welcome Home, 12, 1p, 40', 4 bolts. M1. Electricity, 12-, 2p, 150', gear & bolts. M2. A Day At The Crags, 8, 1p, gear, joins N. N. A's Jax, 8, 3p, 200', gear. Return To Sender, 12-, 2p, 130', bolts. NN1. Zero Tolerance, 11, 1p, bolts & gear. NN2. Moon Doggie, 11, 1p, bolts & gear. O. South, 8, 1-3p, gear. P. Rob's Way, 9 R, 1p, var, joins P. Q. Bitty Buttress, 8+, 3p, gear. QQ. Final Roof, 8, 1p, var to 3rd p of P. R. Orange Dihedral, 8, gear, joins P.
Amphitheatre S. The Buzz, 12+, 1p, bolts. T. The Spins, 12, 1p, 60', gear & bolts. U. Project, 14?, 1p, bolts. V. Roof, A3, 1p, gear. W. Lorax, 13, 1p, 90', bolts & gear. X. The Jitters, 12, 1p, 80', bolts. Y1. Rise and Shine, 12-, 1p, 90', bolts. Y2. Reveille, 10d, 1p, 90', 1st 5 bolts of Y1 -> R, bolts & gear.
Getting There
Take a path that starts at a pullout on the N. side of the canyon, about 25m west of the pullout to Cob Rock. Hike up this well traveled trail to a fork that heads right. Stay on the trail until you're below Blob Rock. Continue heading East over a little hill, then down to the base of Bitty Buttress. The route "Bitty Buttress" starts above a fallen tree.
This is a little-known but absolutely killer line on Bitty Buttress. Hike up to Bitty Buttress and continue past the fallen tree for a couple hundred yards until the trail curves around to meet the southeast corner of the buttress. You will be in an awesome alcove that gets lots of morning sun, and is nice and wind-protected. It is bordered on two sides by overhanging rock. There are three lines in this alcove. On the giant overhanging wave to t...[more]
I feel that the best pullout for Bitty Buttress/Blob Rock is the one just past the pullout for Cob Rock and on the North side of the road. There are earlier pullouts with access to somewhat steep gullies where rockfall is easy and where it might hit your car or the road, neither one a good situation.
The sheltered ampitheater above and right of the Bitty Buttress Route, between The Buzz and The Lorax, is called The El Cap Ampitheater in Rolofson's guide. I've also heard it called The Hot House, probably because it radiates and holds so much morning sun. It's possible to climb here in mid-winter even when it's too windy on Blob. Looks like more routes(?) have gone in here lately. Anyone know what the old aid route is that goes out the big overhang?
If you park just past Cob (like Greg K. suggested) beware the poison ivy that litters the first leg of the approach trail. I've found that passing below the Rock w/3 Cracks is a little easier of a trail if you're going to the fallen tree.
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