Easy access and good top-roping make this a fun rock for a quick session, though the creek and road noise make it damn hard to communicate sometimes. We recommend a 60m rope for toproping; also, when tossing the rope from the top, watch out for the powerlines. Access to the top is via the right side of the rock. The chains at the top are set a little ways back from the edge; a five foot sling is helpful here. Be sure to put the rope through a 'biner; in the summer of 1998, two climbers put their rope through the sling only, and on rappel it burned through, killing one and injuring the other.
L->R:
A. Perfect Route, 9, 1p, 100', gear. B. Living on the Edge, 11 R, 1p, 100', gear or TR. C. Direct, 11, 1p, 100', gear or TR. D. Crease, 11- X, 1p, 100', gear or TR. E. South Face, 10 X, 1p, gear or TR.
Getting There
At 4.6 miles from the entrance to Boulder Canyon there is a turn off on the right side as the road curves left. You can literally belay from your car. The Brick Wall is on the north side of the road.
This is a fun climb. Instead of running of to the right or left, just take her straight up the middle. It nice and friction happy. The holds get a little skimpy, but there is enough there.
True, the rock is not a "destination climb", but as an after work workout, or a low-key day in the sun, it's GREAT. The chains at the top make it an easy toprope, and personally, I wouldn't lead any of the climbs on the face--there aren't even enough micro cracks (Perfect Climb, to the left, is a good lead, however). Be aware, though--just because the approach and setup can be casual, this rock deserves respect: there have been more than one serious injury and at least one death here.
The Brick Wall
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