This is a fragile alpine bouldering area and following Leave No Trace principles is important. Never stash pads. Do not alter landings, chip or glue holds, or remove or alter vegetation. Walk on hard surfaces such as boulders or established trails. Store your gear on boulders instead of dirt or vegetation. Clean up spilled chalk and tick marks and brush holds. Keep your presence low key and unobtrusive. Pack out everything you brought and anything else that shouldn't have been left there. RMNP rangers are very aware of the impact that bouldering has on this environment.
Mostly shady. Typical crowds for the Park during alpine season. Excellent rock.
Beta: Start on the underclings and do an easy right hand move. Leave room for your left hand to match on the good part of the undercling or drop your right hand back down to an undercling and bump your left hand onto the good part of the hold. Right hand up to a small crimp. Bring your left foot up to a small knob at your waist and rock over to get the first sloper. Bump to the second sloper grabbing the nose and then match it using a toehook to stabilize. Bump your left hand up to the third sloper, right foot on the first block, then go right hand to the fourth sloper. Left foot up on the good ledge and drop right foot. Get the gaston in the room and then shuffle your feet over using the block, until you can get your right foot out on a loose block (consensus says its wedged in there). Press up to a crimp/sloper at the lip of the roof. Backstep/dropknee on the first or second sloper (height dependent) and go for the sloper over the lip keeping your feet (crux). Punch to the next lip which is a decent jug traversing right. Then reach up to the second "top out" by getting a left foot on the sloper. There are hidden crimps in the rail at the second lip. Traverse the boulder to the left to top out.
Getting There
Go as for Lower Chaos. Locate the Automator boulder (Automator is a very crimpy low ball, and Tommy's arete with its two large jugs make a nice landmark). Head back ("up canyon") about 100 yards hopping the talus to the right of Tommy's Arete.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Deep Puddle Dynamics:
Perfect slopers on a gently overhanging face. An absolute classic, perhaps the best 9 in the Park! Start on the UNDERCLINGS! Confirmed with DG. Beta. Start on the underclings. Negotiate a match on the square cut sloper and reach up to a suprisingly good (but small) crimp. Left foot up on a small point, toe hook underneath the roof and hit the first sloper left-handed. Reset the toe hook higher and bump to a better sloper. Match. Release...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
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