The Flying Buttress is one of Rocky's alpine classics, and is unique compared to the typical big faces and pinnacles throughout most of the Park. It follows a steep and narrow rib of rock (the west-most of several on Meeker's North Face), presenting moments of sudden exposure and fantastic belays on the narrow rib itself. There are so many variations that about 3 separate routes could be described; in Richard Rossiter's guide about 10-12 people are credited with various FAs and FFAs. We took a line often called "Variations on a Theme", which I will describe, pointing out other major variations from time to time.
As mentioned, the route follows the right-most of about three rock ribs that protrude from Meeker's north face. The long, broad gully leading up to the saddle between Longs and Meeker lies to the right, and the rib itself is bound on either side by smaller gullies that hold some snow for most if not all of the year. From the ranger cabin, hike up talus slightly SE to the rib. Rack up at the base of some long third-class scrambling which leads up to a smooth prow where the 5th class begins.
The easiest line takes the right-most dihedral on the east side of the rib and finishes in a chimney for a 150 foot pitch. We started in an excellent 5.8 hand crack on the right side of the prow itself. This line traverse left through a juggy dark band, then picks up a beautiful left-leaning finger crack (sustained 5.10). Continue weaving back and forth across the rib for another 40 feet to a good belay ledge.
P2 - Continue directly up the obvious line on the prow (5.10a at first, then easier), or a great variation takes the dihedral just around the corner. If following that line, continue on the left side until exposed 5.9- moves lead to a fantastic belay ledge with 2 old bolts (150 feet).
P3 - A little tricky: head up left on the prow to pick up a 5.8 crack and flake. Then traverse right beneath the obvious roof past an old bolt, and climb around the roof on the right past pitons, with great exposure, 5.9-. Continue up the much easier prow and run out all the rope (60M rope handy to reach a good ledge). The obvious three-inch crack through the left side of the roof is said to be 5.9+.
P4 - Continue easily up on the right side of the prow for 60-100 feet to a belay beneath the final steep corner.
P5 - Climb the hand/fist crack in the corner, exit right, and continue to the top of the rib.
Unrope here and scramble (3rd-4th class) across the exposed top of the rib (staying right where it rears up briefly). This brings you to a horizontal break on Meeker's north face. One can continue to the summit via low-5th class to the east, or take one of several steep 5.10ish lines on the 200 foot wall above (seldom done). Most parties head west to 4th class scrambling (or snow sliding) back to the base.
Special Considerations: the route goes in 4 pitches with a 60M rope; done this way it is one of the fastest grade IIIs in the Park (of 8-9 that I have done). The climbing on the 5.9 pitches is not very sustained. 2 ropes is probably overkill on this route as it is possible to make a quick retreat down either side of the rib at almost any point (looks like one or two rappels, with a number of fixed anchors); one 60m rope is certainly enough, though trepiditious parties with a mere 50m might want to toss in a trail line.
If you do go to the top of Meeker (west summit is the highest), the descent is made from the Loft (the broad saddle between Longs and Meeker): from there head east and down to a well-cairned ledge system that bypasses some cliffs (this point can be reached fairly directly by scrambling down from the summit of Meeker). The ledges deposit you at 3rd class scrambling or possibly snow sliding (not the same as the descent from the top of the rib).
Protection
Standard rack with extra thin gear (including rps) to do the direct first pitch.
A great route. You can easily do any of the different variations from pretty much anywhere on the route- they all start from the belays. Be aware that the bolt and pins on the 5.9- section (p4) are all suspect! It is solid (not tricky), yet exposed, climbing through this section, so if you're at your limit BE CAREFUL! This is a route you should do!
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Mar 14, 2002
If you decide to climb the right side of the prow finish, know that it can be painfully cold on that side! Even in the heat of summer. Especially if you belay there for a bit. Feel what rock?
When I attempted this route, we got lost and ended up rapping off in a storm. At that time the only guide to this climb was the first edition of Gillett, which only had a blurry photo of the route and equally worthless topo. The routefinding is a bit tricky considering you are on an arete. Our mistake is now in the guides as one of the pitch 2 variations!
The most interesting of these comments is made by George, when he complains of the "equally worthless topo" in the first edition of my guide. There was no topo for the Flying Buttress in that guide...which may tell us something about why he got lost (just having fun, George).
As long as spelling has been mentioned here, it's GILLETT. Two t's at the end, no final e (my editor made a colossal error when he allowed the cover of that first guide to be printed without sending it to me for proofreading, and 5000 copies went out with my name as GILLET).
You're right Bernard, there was no topo in your 1st edition (I always wondered why your last name changed between the two editions!). All we had was a xerox of that photo with the top of the Flying Buttress in the clouds, and the description. I think it's generally bad taste to blame guidebook authors when you get lost. We got confused, but at least came out of it unscathed. In the mountains, it's amazing how often screwing up gains you a "new variation" or even a "new route"!
So anyway, back to the route... The 5.10 first pitch described is awesome but seems stiff for the grade and requires some precise RP work to make it safe. The gear is all there but hanging off the 10.c finger locks to fish in tiny nuts gets to be very difficult. The 5.9+ roof on pitch 3 does go through a 3" crack but never does one have to jam it. Every hold is a jug through this section, and the gear is perfect. If the fixed gear going around the roof is as suspect as everyone says, I'd suggest going straight through the roof, the moves are gymnastic and the exposure is huge, good stuff!!!!!!!!!!!
I agree with Bryson in that the direct third pitch over the roof is highly recommended. It is steep and burly, but the holds are huge and no fist jamming is required. The position and exposure are excellent and it keeps you in the sun. Fun stuff.
"Eric the rep" and I climbed the buttress and a version of the direct finish the first week of July. We started up the .10a "Dick Rochester" version, but after 80 feet, we traversed right for about 20 to 30 feet past a large flake and into a big right facing dihedral. We climbed up the dihedral for about 60 feet and then out onto the right hand wall for the rest of the rope length, belaying at the top of the dihedral in one looong pitch. The climbing was great, probably 5.8 or so, and a lot better looking than the wet, soggy corner above us. I had enough shite in my eyes at the end that makes me wanna claim FA, but I know better.....anyways I do recommend this as a great alternative to plowing straight ahead after the initial .10a corner. mk
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Jul 25, 2003
For the time-conscious, here's a breakdown of our day that you might find helpful for planning purposes. Of course, some parties will be faster, others slower due to fitness, climbing ability, weather, conditions, etc.
6 am - begin hiking from Long's Peak parking area 9 am - start climbing the route 1:15 pm - top out 2 pm - back to base of route and packs after descending walk-off gully to the west 4 pm - back at car.
By Guy Humphrey From: Fort Collins CO Aug 21, 2003
There is another fun 5th pitch variation that is 5.9. About 25 feet to the right of the large right facing dihedral with a fist crack, there are a set of bail slings. Directly above these bail slings is a steep overhanging corner with a mini roof at the top. There is a fixed nut with an orange sling in the finger crack. The corner looks 5.10 from below, but hidden positive handholds and feet appear at all of the right moments. The crack at top of the overhang eats ropes, so place some gear to redirect the rope or belay.
By climbing this variation and some of the thinner variations on the lower pitches, you can leave the #3 Camalot at home.
Personally, I felt like going thru the roof at the 3" crack was very hard. It felt more like solid 10a to me. For someone shorter, weaker, and having less skill than others, such as myself, it required a a lot of lock off strength. Once you get the left hand "jug" and can get your feet up a little higher it eases up a little, but I found it to be pretty tough to move off of the rail. If this grade is near your limit, prepare to really have to power thru it. A #3 Camalot protects it well if placed high in the crack, which can be strenuous while locking off on the rail below it. I think a #3.5 would fit better if placing lower in the crack.
Other 5.9 sections on the route are pretty tame and very unsustained. Walk off was easy and straight forward down the gully to the west (we didn't summit).
Route finding can be a bit tricky on this thing. Both topo's from both guidebooks were somewhat confusing. Expect to get off route a few times. Fun climbing in a great setting.
At the risk of stating the obvious, the numerous comments regarding route-finding difficulty and 'endless variations' beg another comment: extend slings whenever possible...on pitches 2 and 4, especially. That'll make your experience so much more enjoyable.
Climbed this last summer and on the approach saw a team flying a pirate flag from their portaledge high on the Diamond. Nice! The 5.8 to sustained 5.10 finger crack described by Charles is immaculate. Be sure to bring tiny cams and RPs. This start makes the route one of the best I've done in the park. It seems relatively quick for a Grade III and has excellent rock, nice exposure, and really fun climbing. A must do!
In regards to the roof on P3. I highly recommend the roof if you are feeling strong. I've done the route before by going around to the right which offers great exposure but horrible rope drag. I did the roof clean by getting my left hip into the wall to place a #3 cam high in the crack. I then fired up with a left heel hook and a knee bar once above the crux. The shelf where you would like to put your feet below the crux is not safe. The rock is rotten and ready to fall off. I did not even touch the shelf with my hands. With this new added feature I would call the roof a 5.10.
Climbed this route on Wednesday, July 9. What a GREAT day! Did the route itself in a little less than 5 hours with three people climbing on doubles. Great route for three since every belay is a huge ledge. If both seconds climb at the same time, you don't lose much time.
We started P1 about 6am and topped out a little before 11. 1 hour hike back down the slabs to the packs. Car to car in 12 hours.
Great exposure, great views and fun climbing. That crux roof pitch is great!
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