By now perhaps the most popular alpine climb in the country. DO NOT--repeat, DO NOT do this climb on a weekend.
Excellent climbing to an unimaginable summit. If crowded, there are many alternatives.
Getting There
Park at the Glacier Gorge Junction Trailhead (a mile below Bear Lake), and hike [five] miles or so to Sky Pond (above Loch Vale).
Scramble up talus above Sky Pond to the Petit, which offers a steadily narrowing South Face and is overshadowed by the Sharkstooth to the West and flanked by the Saber on the East.
Possible Descents
Andrews Glacier trail descent: per Paul Huebner: we did short rap down the back on the east side and traversed over to other spire behind it. Then we scrambled up to our left/west through chimney that opens up onto large ledge/ramp leading down to the base and back side of that spire. From there, we descended gentle snow field down to talus and continued on down the Andrews Glacier Trail (approach for Sharkstooth) to Loch Vale and on down to Glacier Gorge Parking lot.
Rap descent - per James Beissel: - All of the rap stations are bolted. If you are rapping off anything besides bolt you are screwing up.- You will need two 60m ropes- All of the raps are double rope rappels- Do not try to rap into the gully!!!- You should not have to downclimb at all
1. Rap from a Fixe anchor at the (climber's) right end of the summit. ~160 ft. 2. Rap from two Fixe ring anchors just past the terrace to a pair of Metolius rap bolts. ~160 ft 3. Rap from the fatty Metolius bolts to the big grassy ledge. ~160 ft. The next set of bolts are about 50' to your left at eye level, above a chimney of sorts. 4. Rap from the anchor over the void (homemade hanger + modern Fixe ring bolt). Pass up the grassy ledge (Second Terrace) at about 160ft. and aim for the big horn about 20' below you. There's probably slings around the horn. They'll help you spot the station, but you will actually be rapping from bolts below the horn. ~180' ft. 5. A 200' rap to a big grassy ledge (First Terrace). The next bolts will be about 50' climber's right. 6. Another 200' rap to the ground off two Fixe ring bolts.
A great route, 8 pitches and slightly runout on easy terrain at the top. Very crowded and in my opinion not nearly as good as the slightly harder and more sustained Culp-Bossier on Hallet Peak. Give yourself plenty of time to do this one as four rappels are required to reach the ground. The summit is awesome and the upper pitches are high quality. The first few pitches aren't as fun and kind of mungy.From Charles Vernon:Approach by pa...[more]
The climb is unforgettable, but the descent could be epic if impatience is your best resource follow the 5 bolted rappels off the southeast side that wrap around to the south side, one scary reach from a large ledge and your home free. This climb is very cool, the best I've done in the park. The day I climbed it, not a soul in sight and the weather held up nicely, unfortunate fools the day before got hail the size of cherries.
Just climbed the South Face route last Tuesday, conditions were great. The route is 99% dry. We also talked to some folks who climbed the South Prow on Sharkstooth. Looks like it's in good shape as well.
Snow on the hike up is in grape shape, possible in boot's without snowshoes. You may desire crampons or an ice axe. Enjoy the early spring!
Just wanted to add my two cents concerning the descent. There are solid bolted rap stations for stretched 60m rappels (TWO ROPES!) to the base of the climb. We had a single 60m, and you can do it the grassy ledge, but we could not find intermediate rap stations for the last 400 feet. So, take two ropes and be happy!
When I climbed the South Face route in 1994, we did short rap down the back on the east side and traversed over to other spire behind it. Then we scrambled up to our left/west through chimney that opens up onto large ledge/ramp leading down to the base and back side of that spire. From there, we descended gentle snow field down to talus and continued on down the Andrews Glacier Trail (approach for Sharkstooth) to Loch Vale and on down to Glacier Gorge Parking lot. Made summit of Petit at 11, had cold beer we had stashed in creek near the Loch and were back at car at 3 PM, just ahead of huge raindrops. Course to do this you have to climb with your pack and take your approach shoes or boots, nothing new in the Mts.
Climbed up to the pizza belay ledge before having to bail. Winter conditions make for a cold and windy ascent. Bring plenty of warm layers and don't skimp on the small gear. Also, bring as many long trad draws as you have to reduce the high potential of rope drag. The third pitch (traverse) or as I call it "epic pitch" is less than desirable in the winter due to snow. Used a 70m to lead, and it reduced the amount of total pitches to 5 or 6. (To the top) Found good bivy towards the base of the tower a good distance up from Sky Pond. Better to take the Girlfriend up in the summer, LOL.
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