Lower East Face

The Diamond and Lower East Face

Description 

This is the wide band of less-than-vertical rock which guards the upper faces (including the Diamond) of the E face of Long's Peak. Once this was a site of great adventures for the area. Now, it seems it is often relegated to consolation routes or approach pitches during warm weather. In a wet fall/winter, this area can sport some of the more impressive ice/mixed routes in the Front Range. Some parts of this section of Long's is subject to objective hazards like rock or ice fall. Also, due to the easterly aspect, this area is often in the shade by 1pm in the summer. In winter, only the upper and northern parts get any sun.

Some of the more impressive/popular routes here include: Alexander's Chimney, 5.5 or better M4; Kor's Dor, 5.9; Malander's Passage, 5.8+; Stettner's Ledges, 5.7++; Smear of Fear, M6; Diagonal Direct, 5.11c; The Diagonal, 5.11b AO; The Directagonal, 5.11b; Field's Chimney 5.7 or M7; Wrecking Ball, M6; Slippery People, M6+; Morning Dew, M7; & Crazy Train, M6.

Getting There 

Most approach this area via the Long's Area trailhead with a hike to Chasm Lake, 4.5 mi., and then an additional bit to the rock. There is typically a section of snow (Mill's Glacier) to navigate which can be soft snow to dark, grey, hardened snow. Some will consider an ice axe useful.

Featured Route For Lower East Face

Kor's Door 5.9-  CO : RMNP - Rock : Lower East Face

Kor's Door climbs the clean buttress just left of Stettner's Ledges in 3-5 pitches of exquisite crack climbing on perfect alpine rock. This is a great route at the 5.9 grade, well-protected, secure, and interesting. The rock quality is flawless from bottom to top.From the broad basin at Mill's Glacier head to the broken Class 4 ledge systems right of Lamb's Slide. Wear a helmet, and if crossing below The Notch area move quickly since rocks com...[more]