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DescriptionThis is the highest peak in Rocky Mountain National Park. It is one of the 54 14,000-foot peaks of Colorado. It is a prized playground for the budding hiker/mountaineer, the intermediate to advanced rock climber, the intermediate to advanced mixed/ice climber, the middle-altitude big wall aid climber; and it even sports a few high-end rock routes. Some still come to try to free some of the old aid routes here. Most adventures involve most of a day to a multi-day affair. Getting ThereThere are many ways to access this peak. This peak lies NW of Denver by 70 miles/1.5 hrs. From Denver, take US 36 to CO Hwy 7 in Lyons, and head N at the top of the canyon or US 36 into RMNP. Likely the most common is from CO Hwy 7, aka Peak-to-Peak Hwy, and the Long's Area trailhead. This approach will be at least 5 miles. You can approach via Glacier Gorge, Storm Pass, Boulder Brook/N Long's Peak Trail/Granite Pass, & even the Wild Basin entrance. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Long's Peak:
The Notch Couloir Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine, Grade III Upper East Face
Kiener's Route 5.3 Easy Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine, Grade II Upper East Face
Cable Route 5.4 Trad, Alpine, Grade III North Face/Ridge
Alexander's Chimney 5.5 Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III Lower East Face
Keyhole Ridge 5.6 Trad, Alpine, Grade III North Face/Ridge
Stettner's Ledges 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 900 feet, Grade III Lower East Face
Kor's Door 5.9- Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 550 feet, Grade II Lower East Face
Casual Route 5.10a Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, Grade IV The Diamond
Directissima 5.10b Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade III Chasm View Wall
Red Wall 5.10 Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600 feet Chasm View Wall
Forrest Finish 5.10 Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade IV The Diamond
Pervertical Sanctuary 5.11a Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade IV The Diamond
The Obelisk 5.11a Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 600 feet, Grade IV The Diamond
Black Dagger 5.11a Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade IV The Diamond
Yellow Wall 5.11b R Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000 feet The Diamond
D7 5.11 Trad, Alpine, Grade IV The Diamond
Ariana 5.12a Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade IV The Diamond
Featured Route For Long's Peak
Sarchasm 5.14- CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Ship's Prow
This route is the brilliant clean arete on the right side of the Ships Prow. Direct start to the Baloney Pony (5.12c). Start Just right of the arete and grab holds and no holds for 8 bolts to an obvious jug where the first pitch of Baloney Pony meets the arete. Put in a couple of stoppers and mantle to the anchors. I would say the business is somewhere between the sixth and eighth bolt but the whole bloody thing is hard. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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