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Center Dihedral 
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Wasp, The 

Center Dihedral 

5.10d

   

FA: Hare & Sharp - 1981
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10c/d [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 200 feet
Views: 265 page views

Submitted By: Josh Janes on Aug 14, 2004


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Description 

Center Dihedral has some pretty good and interesting climbing, and is certainly worthy of more traffic than it apparently gets.

P1: Begin a short ways to the right of Days of Heaven and climb up some large loose blocks to a ledge below an overhang that leads to a small dihedral. Pull this overhang (well protected with a #2 Camalot, 10a). Walk right on a foot ledge to a thin crack. Follow this up to the base of the dihedral and belay.

P2: Climb the dihedral with stemming, liebacks, and tricky gear. A soft 10d.


Protection 

SR. #4 Camalot is unnecessary.



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By Tony Bubb
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 16, 2004
rating: 5.10c

The route has great moves but needs more cleaning. The second pitch is the better of the two. With a 60+M rope and a healthy rack and set of slings (five 2' slings & lotsa 1' slings) you can probably master this as a single pitch.The sugestion to climb this with a #4 cam is not a bad one, but the route can be adequately protected without anything bigger than 2.5". The #4 would take the place of the 2.5" shoved way back in and a 1" under a funky flake at the top of the 4" section. The funky vertical dike to the right makes the climb interesting and unique.Great moves on mostly good stone. Needs a little more cleaning and the grade might get softer by one more letter still.

By S. Kimball
Aug 27, 2005
rating: 5.10d

If this is dirty go to Scotland, clean steep and three star, what the F!!! bring the #4.