The Barb 

You might want to know where to find the left-facing flake to start the climb! It is very near the right side of the main face (but thus, before the North Ridge which borders the face on the right)-a narrow flake that is straight on the left (5.6) and curved on the right (5.8). Also, look for the namesake triangular Barb flake high on the route, to the left of where the route starts (hard to pick out depending on your angle).

An excellent alternative if there are crowds on Sikes Sickle. The Barb dries out faster than anything else on Spearhead after a storm. There are several ways to approach the upper three pitches (the good ones). Short crux, pin looked OK as of July 14, 2001. Instead of going to the summit, it is faster to descend the N. Ridge gully to three single rope rappels near the bottom- this takes you right back to near the start of the route. -S.L.

Really fun route. Moderate line with the exception of the brief crux. Make sure you belay just over the roof on pitch 5. This and the crux pitch are the best pitches.

After climbing this and Sykes two weeks later, the Barb is definately the better of the two routes if you are looking for an outing at the .9 grade. The entire route is clean (there are some mondo flakes loose on Sykes that will kill someone eventually) possibly the cleanest route I've been on in the park.

The crux is short and could be easily aided. The second 5.9 pitch is one of the better pitches I've been on in the Park.

I ended up with two less than optimal belay anchors because of climbing too high. As the original description stated, on P4 belay near the bottom of the 5.6 right-facing dihedral. I finished the dihedral and ended up on the ledge that starts the thin 5.9 crack (with the crux right of the ledge). The ledge makes for a difficult anchor. On P6 I finished the 5.9 crack and climbed into a left-facing dihedral. This stance worked only becuase I had a #2 Camalot left and could step up to place it. Belaying in the 5.9 crack somewhere above the roof would result in a hanging belay, but probably a better anchor.

A great route in an incredible setting. I would agree with the above comments: better climbing than on Syke's Sickle, stellar crack climbing at the 5.9 level, and overall a clean route.

We continued to the top and bypassed the wide slot on the left. We found some fun climbing there and lots of sweeping views of the east face.

The trick to the the notch on Syke's Sickle is to not get suckered into the corner by the fixed gear but to stay out and chimney up. If you clip the fixed gear, you will be in rope drag heaven.

A nice variation to this route: from Middle Earth trend up and left a full rope length over slabs and short flake/corners to a belay at the base of a spectacular and clean left-facing corner. Climb this corner and connect with the top of the first 5.9 pitch- the corner is maybe the best 5.8 pitch on Spearhead. Apparently this doesn't get done much since some gear my climbing partner and I had to leave up there last August 5 was still there last week.

I thought the crux was 10c, short but some pretty thin moves.crazy good splitters before and after the crux thin crack. You DO NOT need RPs like Bernard's book says. I clipped the pin and got a real good #5 stopper, then bouldered up to a hand jam, from there, it's a joyride. ENJOY.

"...clipped the pin," you say? If the pin isn't there (wasn't there for the couple of times I've done the route), or if it's raining, or if you need to aid climb to get off, RPs may come in very handy. I stand by my advice.

The pin looked excellent (I thought it might even be recent?) as of 7/5/2002. (I'd suppose I'd agree with A.C. that one could take a few RPs "just in case" -- they're so damn light! I guess I take a few on most granite for that reason.)

Oops, I forgot to sign my name (to the comment about standing by my advice). I'll admit I haven't been on the route for 15 years or more, so perhaps the pin has come to be a "permanent" fixture on the route (i.e. people expect it to be there), but I don't think that was always the case.

Quoting from Glenn Randall's book VERTIGO GAMES: "On the final lead, McClure slotted two small nuts in opposition in a horizontal crack, then ran it out 15 feet on the flared, 5.10 fingertip crack above. 'I thought it was pretty bold,' McClure said. 'It wouldn't have been a death fall, but if I'd had a Lost Arrow I certainly would have put it in.' Climbers today, equipped with smaller nuts, can find adequate protection without resorting to driving iron."

Climbers today, it appears, have decided to drive home a pin. Give it five more years, and maybe we'll have a couple half-inch bolts at the crux -- just bring a couple quick draws and go for it. Anyway, Justin, you can keep going up there without RPs, but I'm going to bring 'em along just for old-time's sake.

My intention was not to sound as if Bernard's advice was not useful, I almost always bring RPs just in case. I definitely bring them when Bernard suggests it. The point I wanted to make is that in my mind there is a BIG differnce between 10c with nice fat nuts, and 10c with just RPs protecting you. This crack will take RPS, but it will also take at least one #5 stopper and maybe more. If anyone was worried about the pro, they might take comfort in the notion that it does protect. Now that I have ruined the surprise and shamed myself I will fade into cyber-obscurity.

Sorry for the late comments, but I've just cruised through this site. Nice!!!

The crux is short, but our guidebook said 10c, so it felt harder than Romulan Territory, (recently revised from 10a to 10c in the comments section). It had snowed two days before, but was mostly dry. My partner fiddled in a couple of nuts (no pin in 86!) They weren't the confidence inspiring bombproof things you want when approaching your limit at 11000'. Trust the current rating!!

Ed Pavelchek

The Barb and Birds of Fire are a good link up, because the descent off the Barb puts you about 45 min from the start of B.O.F [and because] you rap the route.... You aren't as [committed] as some other routes in the park.

Last year on the summer solstice, my insanely strong partner and I did Sykes, Birds of Fire, and Artemis (sp) on Arrowhead. Glacier Gorge is my favorite and invites you to kick your own ass

This route is superb. Rock quality rivals Lumpy Ridge and the cracks don't flare. I'd like more beta on the descent. My partner and I burned a lot of time wandering from gully to gully (working south) for some time before finding one that didn't cliff out. Anyone know a good way to find the shortest way down. Gillett's otherwise excellent description said little more than *avoid any steep gullies.*

Is there water available at the bivvy for North Ridge Route and/or Sikes Sickle? Leaving tomorrow 7:30 AM so I'll leave the computer on all night....nothing like leaving something for the last second...

Yes, there are several streams in the area, including a pretty little brook that runs beneath the bivy sites into a small pond. Frozen Lake, just over the moraine droping from the N Ridge route, has approximately 100 acre-ft of H2O. Probably ought to treat the water lest you get the glitches.

Plenty of water in small feeder streams, especially this year ! As I said in my general "Spearhead" post "The Best Backcountry Campsite in RMNP" ! Enjoy !

FA: McClure: "Hi, I'm Troy McClure. You may remember me from such climbs in RMNP as the Barb..."

I did this route for the fourth time last weekend. It is still one of my all time favorite routes. Way better than Sykes. [Definitely] not 10-, the crux is solid 10c even after doing it four times!

Great route. I would [definitely] call the crux a 5.10c boulder problem, maybe only 4 or 5 moves though. Be prepared for another stiff, continuous 25 feet of 5.9+ after the crux. Watch out for killer death blocks that are easily kicked off pitch 1, and explode, [hurtling] buck-shot-like towards your partner who will undoubtly dive behind near boulders wide-eyed with fear. Also, avoid gassy foods prior to this route. The belay just before the crux almost classifies as hanging in a corner, and it's cozy nature greatly increases the probability of having your partner rip ass in your face.

Oh, almost forgot. For the more adventuresome souls, the 5.8 crack on the right side of the pitch 1 flake has been playing host to copious amounts of plant life for some time now. Excellent, unprotected climbing on vertical grass can now be found and goes at a stiff [vegetation] 7, (Veg VII). This is roughly [equivalent] to wet, loose 5.10. Ice axes recommended. Downclimbing difficult.

I bivvied up there once, intent on climbing Birds. It absolutely unleashed all night with a lot of rain and lightning. We headed over to Birds and the wall was completely soaked.

We decided to take a look at the Barb, and found it to be completely dry.

Also, we had a pretty small rack, since we were planning on climbing Birds (stoppers, and about 8-10 cams, no bigger than #2 Camalot), and everything seemed pretty reasonable. Have fun!

Descent Options

S.L posted on July 16 2001 that is was possible to descent the N ridge gully and do 3 single rope raps to the base near the Barb start. Has anyone done this recently? I plan to try the route next Monday and looking for options to get down in case it is late or raining. It might help to avoid the last 2-3 pitches up the North Ridge route (which I've done and are the best on the route...) I did the descent off the backside many years ago and I must have gotten lost because it sucked and consisted of loose downclimbing.

Thanks for the help.

Jim Arnold

Just did the Barb yesterday. Here is some Barb Beta that may help.

Pitch 1-3: We simul-climbed the first three pitches to the start of the upper wall 5.6 pitch. This really helped time wise and with a 60m rope I was on pretty much nearing the top of the large grassy ledge before my partner was climbing and I walked along this large ledge as a moving belay to the base of the 5.6 pitch.

Pitch 5 (slanting 5.9 pitch) excellent. Have a #3 Camalot. First real good protection. Climb pitch until you are directly under the �A� roof on a slanted ledge. There are two fixed nuts in the crack to the right that leads up to the �A� roof. Belay on the slanting ledge at the base of this crack.

Pitch 6: (through the A roof) climb left crack through the �A� roof steep with excellent hands. After climbing the perfect hand jam crack above the �A� roof look up and you will see a detached finger horn sticking off the wall pointing to the left. Standing on the horn is the belay for the 5.10C pitch. From the belay you can almost reach right and touch the pin in the 5.10C section.

Pitch 7: Crux: You can totally avoid the 5.10C part if needed. My partner on tension reached the pin and clipped (pin is in great condition as of this posting). He hung on the pin and placed a good stopper above. From there, you can make a few 5.10+ moves or pull on the nutted piece and gain a solid hand jam (beginning of the 5.9+ crack)and place a bomber cam easily. The remainder of the crack is hands (5.9+) similar to the hand crack above the A roof with bomber frequent cam protection. After exiting the crack, you will be on lower angle slab directly under a small roof. Head right under small roof and drop down into a comfortable dihedral with good pro. (Second will have problems hearing commands from this belay).

Remaining two pitches: Climb the dihedral-gully staying as far left as possible. This pitch actually puts you back on the face for a short time. Follow finger jams, pull a small roof (like "A" roof) and find a belay. Stay left (almost back on the face) and climb through a short chimney onto the top of a large rock ledge. From this ledge you are looking directly above the descent gully we took out.

Our Decent: Go down gully working towards the skiers left. There will be a large rock carrion that takes you out of this gully onto a skiers left traverse. From this carrion stay level and keep traversing left as far as possible. The ledge system ends onto a large low angled scree field with a trail that cuts sharply back right along the cliff. Follow back to beginning of climb.

Further notes: We bivied on the large rock ledge. Water was abundant. I would not recommend this route if 5.9 is your upper limit of climbing.

Charlie,

Thanks very much for your new post on your Barb climb. I intend to do it about a week from now. Simul climbing the first 3 pitches sounds like a good idea. Do you recall how long pitches 5, 6, and 7 were? Also on the top two pitches do you think you were on the North Ridge route or something else? Also your descent sounds like it was off the backside?.

Thanks,

Jim

Great stone in the upper pitches. The crux is very short and not too committing. Once above the roof, it's probably possible to climb all the way to where the crux pitch starts with a 60m rope.