North Pillar 

FA:  Mitch Musci, J Whorton, 2005 New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad, Alpine Length:  4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II Views: 572 page views Submitted By: Mitch Musci on Sep 7, 2005 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Mitch follows the nice hand crack on pitch 2. Phot...

Description 

Approach the base of the north face via a 2nd class ramp system. Begin in a prominent gully that splits the left side of the north face. Scramble up the gully until it turns to 5th class. Step right on to a grassy ledge with a nice crack for an anchor.

Pitch 1: (5.7, 140ft) Zig-zag up the moss/lichen covered face, trending slightly to the right. Traverse right under a roof, then head straight up a left facing corner to find another nice belay ledge.

Pitch 2: (5.7, 140 ft) Jam the splitter hand crack straight off the belay for 40 feet...you are now on the North Pillar. Continue up the pillar with occassional protection while passing a few bulges. Belay on the left side of the pillar beneath a steep, left facing dihedral system.

Pitch 3: (5.8, 100ft) Climb up into the dihedral system and pass through two roofs (crux). Gain the north ridge, climb a blank slab, and belay at the base of a large step in the ridge.

Pitch 4: (5.7, 100ft) Ascend the step with nice face holds and a crack, then continue on easier terrain to the false summit. 4th class scrambling finds the true summit.

Descent follows the west ridge (4th class) for about 400 feet and then drops down a loose gully to the right (north). Several 3rd class gullies also drop down the south side of the mountain further along the ridge (500+ft from the summit).

Protection 

Standard alpine rack to 3 inches.

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J Whorton climbs through the dihedral system on pi...