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Ithaca 

5.12a

   
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FA: Andy Donson and Dave Light 1997
Type: Trad, Alpine
Length: 6 pitches, 800 feet, Grade IV
Views: 1,119 page views

Submitted By: justin dubois on Jan 1, 2005


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Justin doing battle with the 4th pitch. Another be...


Description 

Ithaca climbs the huge arching corner system just right of the plumbline of Airhead (5.11d) and a bit left of Warhead. Start off a long ledge system reached after some easy scrambling.

Pitch 1: Climb straight up the beautiful slab below the arch with no gear but good holds. Belay in some ledgy stuff below a nice clean right facing corner. Delightful 5.8x 160ft.

Pitch 2: Climb the [L-facing] corner to a nice stance below a left angling roof/arch. Excellent. 5.11a 75ft.

Pitch 3: The crux. Climb out left with underclings under the roof, but nada for feet. Very similar to The Adventures of B-Dog on the Book. A fixed wire helps protect it. The climbing eases after about 20 ft. Climb out left to a corner and up to a little stance. Wicked. 5.12a 100ft.

Pitch 4: Climb the hanging corner above. Tricky to protect but safe. Brilliant. 5.11 100ft.

Pitch 5: More of the same. straight up more thin corner till it ends. Climb up steep flakes above, belay below a big wedged flake. Nifty. 5.11 125ft.

Pitch 6: Step up and climb onto the huge flake.Negotiate a spicy section of 5.10. Continue up through the very imposing roof above with a delightfully juggy finish. Mind-bending. 5.11 150ft.

To descend, walk east down the Summit Ramp, or bring two ropes and rap from the saddle between Mchenry's and Arrowhead. It's possible to link pitches on this badboy, but the climbing is hard, and when Andy says to stop, ya'll better stop. All in all, one of the finest routes I've climbed in the Park. Enjoy.


Protection 

Doubles to 0.75 Camalot, singles in #1, 2, 3 Camalot, RPs.



Add Photo Photos of Ithaca
On the 2nd pitch, if the dihedral is wet or mossy, the crack out on the face to the right also goes at 11a.

BETA PHOTO: On the 2nd pitch, if the dihedral is wet or mossy,...