Sarchasm 

FA:  Tommy Caldwell Type:  Sport, Alpine Consensus:  5.14- [details] Length:  1 pitch, 110 feet Views: 1,019 page views Submitted By: Jim Redo on Aug 3, 2004 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: The route is the clean arete in the middle of the ...

Description 

This route is the brilliant clean arete on the right side of the Ships Prow. Direct start to the Baloney Pony (5.12c). Start Just right of the arete and grab holds and no holds for 8 bolts to an obvious jug where the first pitch of Baloney Pony meets the arete. Put in a couple of stoppers and mantle to the anchors. I would say the business is somewhere between the sixth and eighth bolt but the whole bloody thing is hard.

Protection 

Although this is primarily a sport route you do need to bring a couple mid-range stoppers for the top. 8 bolts to a two bolt anchor with slings and biners.