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Greensleeves 

5.12b

   

FA: Gillett & McMahan - 1997
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 510 page views

Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jul 19, 2004


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Description 

Greensleeves takes a line on the upper tier of Rock of Ages, just left of a black streak and left of The Wasp.

Follow an easy finger crack for 20' to the first bolt. The rest of the climb is a very sustained crimping - as Bernard Gillett says in his guidebook: a whole lot of 5.11 and a 5.12 move near the top.


Protection 

A couple wires for the start and 9 bolts.



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By david goldstein
Jul 20, 2004
rating: 5.12b

Somewhat similar in character to Untitled in Eldo and Plan B in Boulder Canyon: no stopper moves but there are virtually no rests and you could blow it almost anywhere. A couple of the clips are just reachable at 5'7". The holds are still consolidating -- my partner I both had holds crumble under us. Wear good edging shoes This route faces south but would best be done when shaded. At the end of pitch the natural line trends left, away from the anchors and pretty far from the last bolt; this stretch can be protected with a small RP which can be backcleaned (straightening out the rope) once good holds are reached.

By Bob D'Antonio
From: Superior, CO
Jul 27, 2004

There are several hard move starting at the second bolt and lasting past the ninth. For me the crux what getting into the small corner near the 8th bolt. As stated before it is a little runout past the 9th bolt but follow the foot ramp to good holds and traverse right about 5 feet above the last bolt on good hold to the anchors. Great route and great job by BG.

By Anonymous Coward
May 9, 2005

excellent route, probably harder than the wasp! At the last bolt one can go straight up at .10+ [eliminating] the [runout].